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Thread: How to take bodies OFF Arnold Rapido , Minitrix Diesel, Steam and Electric engines ?

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    Default How to take bodies OFF Arnold Rapido , Minitrix Diesel, Steam and Electric engines ?

    So I have a bunch of older Arnold Rapido , Minitrix Diesel, Steam and Electric engines .
    A lot of tem are European engines .
    I looked at youtube the ones they show are newer and much easier to remove.
    I can see tiny tabs on some of the engines, they just look easily broken !
    None of these engines run, I have tried cleaning the wheels nothing !
    If they have lights I can get them to work !
    I need to get the bodies off and see if I can clean them up inside !
    I have many more than pictured .
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    I don't know about the steam engines, but the diesels and electrics are usually simply pry the body apart with thumbnails while lifting the bogies. FIRST, though, see if the bumper extend under the chassis. I have come across several recently that you need to pull the bumpers out because those are what hold the chassis and body together.

    Also, wait for others to add any alternative means of disassembly.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I can easily see the tabs on the War Bonnet, but how do you hold back the body? It sort of curled under , very fragile . I was thinking of using maybe an automotive feeler gauge!

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    The chassis on the F7/F9 (warbonnet and a very early Rapido) is held to the shell with two brass screws, one at the front in one corner and one at the rear in the other corner. What appear to be mountings in the skirting are not. Also, the shell is die cast metal, not plastic.

    Most Rapido steamers are held together by screws, too, so look for them on the bottom. The boiler shell will usually have a screw from the top to hold it to the chassis. It may be "hidden" in one of the domes.

    Rapido German prototype diesel locos are usually held together by metal clips that slip between the shell and chassis, although this may not be universal. First look for screws and if you don't see any, look for thin metal clips. For example, the 0202 V200 diesel has one centrally located clip running between the shell and chassis and there is a "bulge" on each side which protrudes through an opening in the shell.

    One more thing, if they don't run, one of the first things to check is the brushes/commutator as they have a tendency to get dirty and fouled with brush material. Of course, contact points are crucial, too.

    Doug
    Last edited by Doug Gosha; 10th Apr 2019 at 07:27 PM.
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    Thanks Doug !
    Now that I know I'm looking for screws I found them! As I look at the other Locos I'm finding more screws !
    THANKS !

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    You're welcome. Although I have been in nine mm trains from the beginning (I started with Treble-O-Lectric) my interest in Arnold Rapido is very recent and I have bought a lot of locos, especially Geeps (GP7, GP9, GP30) but some steamers and a couple European diesels, too.

    I already knew how the Geeps are constructed from MR reviews years ago but stumbled onto some of the other assembly methods Arnold used.

    When I got my first F unit like yours, I was sure those two slots in the skirting were locks to keep the body on, too but, since the shell is metal, the spreading to release trick didn't seem too feasible and I then discovered those two screws in there.

    BTW, the vertical extensions on the couplers are to enable them to couple to Arnold's earlier couplers which were just bent metal hooks and they hook around the extension.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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