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Thread: Noob you question re: Unitrack and prodigy Dcc

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    Default Noob you question re: Unitrack and prodigy Dcc

    Hi new to n scale and away from actual modeling for 35 years. Yea those pesky things like marriage,kids,jobs etc kept me away.

    so my question. I bought the scenic ridge kit. I have been building it for a week or so and I am just fed up with the Atlas track never fitting back together with out reconfigurations.
    I am planning to switch to Kato and redo my track plan
    I purchased a MRC prodigy advance squared off EBay Now to the question. Can I just hook up the power to the layout and run a DCC equipped engine without having to get my Electrical engineering degree?

    i also have a trackage question using Unitrack to build the Scenic Ridge.

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    Yes you can! With a small layout where you don't need boosters or separated power districts, just connect your tracks and hook up your DCC command station. No different than hooking up a DC power pack.

    If you layout is large, you'll probably want to run a bus underneath (connected to the DCC command station output) and run feeders to your tracks every so often to distribute the power better/evenly.

    Using Kato Unitrack for the Scenic Ridge will be a bit more challenging as you'll probably run into problems where Unitrack won't match the radius and/or length of Atlas track. If you're a bit more seasoned modeler you can fix that by cutting Unitrack to custom fit lengths.

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    For converting the track plan to Unitrack, Mike Fifer of Fifer Hobbies (who is also a member on here) has a bunch of tutorials on modifying Unitrack, if you want to start delving into that.

    Cutting Unitrack to length:

    https://www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-ma...kato-unitrack/

    A video on making Unitrack more flexible to get different curves:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXXLdEv_dqY

    Also, if you don't already have it, you might look into track planning software to help you figure it out. I like Anyrail (free trial version), lots of folks like SCARM (free), there are others too.

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    I have seen a plan using Unitrack on the scenic ridge it does have a different geometry then atlas but I have already glued the risers. But what the heck I really want to run trains i call it a great moment when I can get a loco to sort of run (requires the big finger pusher). All I have read says Kato is the best sectional all in one. The European system is just too European is not even a consideration since they don’t really support us style railroads.
    Thanks for all the comments and as soon as I can sell my ho stuff and Atlas N track the sooner I can buy the Kato Unitrack.

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    +1 on Mike Fifer and Kato track
    Yours,

    Gene

    Turtle Creek Industrial RR

    Link to my Flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/epumph/

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    I already invested a few bucks to buy the scenic ridge kit and picked up the atlas track kit off EBay for cheap. Unfortunately it just will not fit back together after I plaster or even set the risers. I am going to try and get it to at least run smoothly before I dismantle it and salvage what I can Risers are not that expensive and I probably can use the base.
    This place is really friendly it’s nice to find a comfortable space on the internet these days

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    Kato is supposed to be really great for connecting and dis-connecting. I can say for myself as I use Atlas Code 55.
    Yours,

    Gene

    Turtle Creek Industrial RR

    Link to my Flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/epumph/

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    @Marksomebody You may want to checkout @Spookshow's site where he documents his Woodland's Scenic Ridge efforts

    http://www.spookshow.net/layout2.html

    If you haven't seen it, his website is the bible for n-scale locomotive reviews.

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    After reading through the thread, the track may not be issue. If you have plaster cloth down from the scenics express kit, then it will leave little bumps. Make sure you give the areas where your track roadbed will go an extra good sanding. Don't shortcut this step on the Scenics module or you will hate life later - ask me how I know. Also, you may want to consider using cork roadbed v. the WS foam stuff they give you. A little more forgiving plus you can sand it more effectively.

    For your transition from flat to the WS foam risers, you may have to lay a thin layer of spackle down to create a more smooth and longer transition. Regardless of how thin the edges of the WS risers are, the track still needs a little help.

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    I can see (literally and actually what you are saying. I have plastered only the risers destined to be in the tunnels and can see the bumps. The instructions say some areas may need filling with smooth it or foam putty. The major problem I am having is just getting the track to fit after I remove the part that is not going to be covered and try to match it up with the part that is going to be covered it just doesn’t go back together 2D74D763-9D7D-4D8F-877E-FCAF036EE22C.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotian_Huntress View Post
    @Marksomebody You may want to checkout @Spookshow's site where he documents his Woodland's Scenic Ridge efforts

    http://www.spookshow.net/layout2.html

    If you haven't seen it, his website is the bible for n-scale locomotive reviews.
    I have read the series of articles he wrote I have tried to follow his advice from the future about mistakes and reading the instructions ahead a few pages. I wish I was as detail oriented as he is. The finished product was just beautiful.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marksomebody View Post
    I can see (literally and actually what you are saying. I have plastered only the risers destined to be in the tunnels and can see the bumps. The instructions say some areas may need filling with smooth it or foam putty. The major problem I am having is just getting the track to fit after I remove the part that is not going to be covered and try to match it up with the part that is going to be covered it just doesn’t go back together 2D74D763-9D7D-4D8F-877E-FCAF036EE22C.jpg
    Mark - How comfortable are you using flex track? A ton of tutitorials on You Tube on how to measure, cut and tack it down. What I am seeing in your oops might be a function of your Atlas sectional track. Two or three 36" flex track may help you clean up some of your track issues. A lot cheaper than buying a whole new set of Kato.

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    Dave
    i hate to blame the track but I am sure that is part I am also a big part. If patience is a virtue then I am in trouble.
    I have never used flex even years ago in HO. I know it would solve a fair amount of the problems and I’ll give it a try stand by for more oops but that’s how one learns I’ll start a thread on the proper board so I don’t break any off topic rules I must admit I expected a mod to move this conversation or lock the topic

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    Yours,

    Gene

    Turtle Creek Industrial RR

    Link to my Flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/epumph/

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    3534D686-02B7-45EE-8A97-C8FB271F827F.jpgSuccess sort of!
    i reread Spookshow’s story’s and reimagined the track plan a bit with a few switches and a little track I got a spur, yard or mainline running thru it (thanks again Spookshow)
    i still have not gotten a train to run but I think a close inspection of the track will show dirt on the rails or just bad loose rail joiners. That is the next step before I can even think about building the tunnel
    Attached Images Attached Images

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