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Thread: Rivarossi Mike issues..

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    Default Rivarossi Mike issues..

    EDIT: Yea, it's a pacific, not a mike.. can't edit post title :/

    Got a nifty little find at the last train show I was at:

    IMG_20190602_102921.jpg

    IMG_20190602_101852.jpg

    Didn't know anything about it.. came home and did some research and scored the entire set for less than half of what the locomotives themselves seem to go for on scamBay.

    Thing works (more or less), headlight still works and everything. Having a bit of an issue though; the shell doesn't sit level and rocks on the frame. Here's some pics of what I mean:

    You can see the front of the shell sitting waaaay too high. This looks terribad and also prevents the headlight from working.
    IMG_20190602_101912.jpg

    If I push down, the shell sits properly. As it appears to pivot in front of the screw on the top, when screwed down it rocks back and looks like the above.
    IMG_20190602_101956.jpg

    Reading on Spooks I understand these locos could suffer from frame warping, but this one appears to be fine (other than what looks like some minor surface cracking):

    IMG_20190602_102137.jpg

    IMG_20190602_102131.jpg

    IMG_20190602_102202.jpg

    IMG_20190602_102353.jpg

    I've tried routing the wires six ways from Sunday but nothing I do seems to have any effect. Any thoughts?

    Locomotive also can barely pull it's own tender. I'm guessing that's because the traction tires on it are nicely solidified smooth circles -I'm thinking of stripping them off and replacing with bullfrog snot.

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    ah that there is a thing o' beauty.

    bad news first...
    The "minor surface cracking"... it ain't minor.

    you have all the parts for a Rivarossi Pacific Kit...

    keep them together. I've tried a lot of ideas for fixing the issue you have.

    I am not the first to try to make a replacement chassis for that model.
    so far the best I have done is a silicone-rubber mold that was extremely fussy.
    I also made a three part chassis that is a lot of mill-machine time.

    Good news in that is that the lead-free pewter makes a pretty good chassis.
    many hours of runtime on mind and little wear.
    the 'not ready for prime time' issues are what you get from mold rubber
    can be well out of spec and thus the three parter with machining time.
    as well as cost and it will be a kit and what you have paid a lot of money to get
    will run like these rivarossi locos run.

    for about that same amount of money...
    the MP Pacifics might be a better option.
    I sincerely doubt you have any idea how hard it is on my heart and soul to say that last part.

    you can try to superglue the chassis together.
    It has gotten me a few days of runtime.

    I have tried a few things to get the cracking to stop.
    so far no love.

    victor

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    and here is a thread about one of my attempts ....

    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showth...las-RR-Pacific
    victor

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    Ow, so sad Condolences are with you.
    Thanks, Tom

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    Eh, well, that sucks. I guess a shelf queen it is. Maybe I'll make a diorama out of it some day.

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    Ya'know, the root cause of all of this is ... wait for it ... wait for it ... the guys that manufactured this model were ... yep, here it comes ... disease'el lovin' weenies.

    Yeah, that's right, Moose calls 'em as Moose sees 'em ... Dirty rotten disease'el lovers!



    Long live steam!!!

    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)

    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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    Superglue the cracks to get as much life out of the frame as possible and file the front of the brass screw at an angle to allow the shell to settle down at the front. Alternately, you can lay a thick shim on top of the frame at the motor mount area to hold the rear of the shell up and see if it goes down at the front.

    I have used both methods. Sometimes, even if the frame is a good one, the same thing can occur if they were lazy in the factory.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    Yea I think I'll try the shim method -easiest fix for now. This isn't going to be a permanent member of my layout, just something to pull out and run every now and then or maybe at the club here and there.

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    My Great Northern Heavy Pacific was the same way, even though the frame is good, and I used the shim method on it. It's fine now.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    I've got one that's a 'factory fresh' return with the warning label on it, and it wouldn't run. Frame had swelled to the point where the axles had jammed in the slots. Took it apart and filed the frame slots a little wider with a needle file, got it to sit flat on the rails, and ran like a champ, a brand-new locomotive in-box for basically nothing.

    That was about five years ago. Now it's continued to warp to the point that the pilot is actually touching the railhead and the running board steps are about a foot off the pilot deck. It's a terminal case, bending in the same place yours is. I'm scrapping it for parts. It's an ORIGINAL old Atlas Rivarossi, probably....1969? You'd think it would finally give up swelling, but it's just slowly getting worse. I've done the ACC thing already. It's just sad. I got some running out of it but it's done-for now.
    Randgust N scale kits web page at www.randgust.com

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    Yeah, it's a variable thing. Some crack to a point and stop without much warp and some just keep going until they are no good for anything. My 0-8-0 I got in 1969 got all crumbly and the slots closed in but I reattached the loose pieces, filed the slots back open, and ran ACC into every crack I could find and it's been OK since. I have a few of the little 0-6-0's and some of the frames completely fell apart and are useless.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    I wonder if this is an oxidation issue.i have an 0-8-0 and it also has a nice crack in the frame. Usually when metal does this at room temperature and pressure it's because oxygen is geting in there. maybe paint the frame with some good enamel to seal out the air?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_L View Post
    I wonder if this is an oxidation issue.
    According to wikipedia it's an "intercrystalline corrosion process" (whatever that means).

    Everything you never wanted to know about zinc pest - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_pest

    -Mark

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