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Thread: InterMountain SD40-2 Slow at Startup

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    Default InterMountain SD40-2 Slow at Startup

    Hi,

    I recently purchased an InterMountain SD40-2 with a LokSound Decoder. This is my first engine that isnít a Kato and my first engine that has sound in it. My previous attempts to install a sound decoder in an engine didnít end so well for the engine so I thought I would purchase one with the decoder already installed.

    Prior to purchasing the engine i reviewed the information on the spookshow.net site. This is a nice site but wow what a lot of work. Great job!

    Anyway the engine I got from InterMountain works good with one exception. When I start it up after the engine has cooled down it will hardly move until it has done one or two trips around my layout. After that it runs fine until it cools down again.

    I have tried changing the CVs (52, 53, 54, and55) that control the motor but I havenít been able to make the engine run any better when it first starts up.

    I was was wondering if anybody has experienced this issue with an InterMountain engine and what you did about it. I would also be interested in knowing what people have set the above mentioned CVs too or if they left them at the defaults.

    Thanks. I appreciate any help I can get with this.
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
    Azatrax: MRD8
    TrainController Software
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  3. #2
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    Have you tried setting CV2 CV6 CV5 ? These are the start , mid , and max

    https://www.intermountain-railway.co...-FAQ-Page.html

    Steve

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    Hi Steve,

    Yes I have set them so that the maximum scale speed (CV5) is approximately 140 kph and the threshold speed (CV2) is about 1 or 2 kph. CV6 is 1/2 way between (i.e. a straight line. No speed curve).

    I also know that that with the LokSound decoder there is a Shunting Speed that will 1/2 the speed of the settings. I made sure this was turned off.

    Thanks.
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
    Azatrax: MRD8
    TrainController Software
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    Sorry Steve I also forgot to add to my last post that I went through the setting from InterMountain that you referenced (specifically both options for the Smoother Motor Control) and they didnít help. I currently have CVs 52, 53, 54, and 55 set according to Option 2.
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
    Azatrax: MRD8
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    Ok , im out of ideas other than Mark (Spookshow) did note that the Sound equipped locos came with a lot of grease in the axle wipers and he recommended that a good cleaning there would help out with pickup . But your not really experiencing pickup problems are you ? It still may be a over lubricated loco , and when the lubricants cool down they firm up a bit , and once warm they allow free movement

    Steve

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    I was thinking about that and I was hoping it could be solved with some different CV settings.

    I am a bit worried about taking this engine apart as I donít have much experience with doing that. Specifically taking the trucks apart as I have never done that. Can anyone offer me any guidance or tips on how to do this.
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
    Azatrax: MRD8
    TrainController Software
    Arduino

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    Here is the conversation i had with Mark (Spookshow)

    Re: Cleaning the axle wipers


    Originally Posted by aflica
    I've read your review on the sound equipped Intermountain SD40-2 locos . You said you have to clean up excess lube on the axle wipers . Do you have a method for doing this ? Im a newbie at doing something like that , but have 2 that i would like to do . I know this is a big ask , but could you help me out with how to do this . I am asking you as so far as a search on how to do this , I've come up blank , except your review



    Hi, Steve. The trucks are pretty simple to work on. First, pull them out of the chassis. Next, pull off the bottomplate/sideframe piece (it clips to the truck gearbox). Once that's out of the way you will have access to the metal axle wipers. Clean our the dimples where the axles seat and the tips (where they brush up against the contact strips on the chassis). Reassemble and you should be good to go.

    Good luck!
    -Mark

    http://www.spookshow.net

    Now i haven't done it yet as i packed up my trains for most of a year now , but hopefully this will help you

    Steve

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    Thanks Steve. I will give this a try when I get a chance. I very much appreciate your help.
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
    Azatrax: MRD8
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    Arduino

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    This is handy - I don't have to respond to questions myself anymore

    -Mark

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    Haha. A quick question Mark. Do you just need to wiggle the trucks and pull them out or do I need to take the frame apart to get them out?
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
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    They should pull off relatively easily. You shouldn't have to disassemble anything.

    -Mark

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spookshow View Post
    This is handy - I don't have to respond to questions myself anymore

    -Mark
    Hope you dont mind me doing that .

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by aflica View Post
    Hope you dont mind me doing that .
    Heck no, the interwebs are primarily for the sharing of handy information, right? Or at least that's what they should be, lol.

    -Mark

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    Steve, Mark thank you both your comments in this thread make help to make this forum very comfortable for a relatively inexperienced person like myself... Warren thanks for letting me hijack your thread for a minute. From lovely downtown Pointe du Bois Mb. Darrell

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    I cleaned the trucks last night. They didnít appear that dirty to me but what do I know, so as I had them apart I cleaned them anyway. Just ran my train this morning and it didnít show me any love. There was no change. It still took 1 or 2 laps to warm up and then it ran well.

    When taking it apart I wasnít able to just pull the trucks off. I was a little worried about how hard to pull so I decided to loosen the frame. I followed Markís Instructions and took the shell off, removed the decoder and the plastic board underneath it and then the two plastic clips holding the frame together. I then used a small screwdriver to slightly separate the frame until the trucks would come out. The hardest part of this whole process was getting the shell off and on.

    I guess Iím going to have to devise some sort of warmup schedule for this engine before I start using it for operations. As my wife just said, ďWhatís the big deal you need a bit of time to warmup in the morning as wellĒ.

    Darrell,
    No problem hijacking the thread. Pointe du Bois is a beautiful place in the province. Iím from Winnipeg.
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
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    DBR

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    That's about where I'm at. I have several locos (Atlas, mainly) that are pretty pokey until I've run them for a few minutes. It's never really bothered me enough to try to do anything about it.

    -Mark

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    Hi AP,

    It’s very possible to “heavy” of an oil was used to lubricate the lokie, or possibly some lubricant is passing though the bearings and settling on the commutator.

    When the oil heats up and becomes more “fluid’ things turn more easily, likewise if its oil on the commutator, that burns off rather quickly and gives better brush contact.
    To test that theory hook an ammeter up (in series) in your circuit and read starting current and then read again after a few laps when the lokie is running better.
    If you see a consistent drop in amp draw, one of the above is likely your problem.
    To fix, disassemble the chassis and degrease all parts with a plastic safe degreaser, paying careful attention to the bearings on both sides of the motor and the worms. Also hose down the commutator and rotate it so all the spaces between the commutator plates are clean. Remove all the stubborn black carbon deposits with a Q-Tip.
    Remove any errant fibers left behind with tweezers before re-lubing and re assembly.
    Use light oil on the motor bearings and bearing blocks. And just a dab of grease in the center of the worms.
    Don’t over do it, less is more. No need to lube truck gears,the little bit of grease from the worms will transfer and be more than enough.

    What I use;
    Degreaser:
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
    Oil;
    https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/HL654
    Grease:
    https://labelle-lubricants.com/shop/labelle-106-grease-with-ptfe/

    Good luck

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    Hi,

    Unfortunately I couldnít find that degreaser at my local Home Depot and the Canadian website doesnít list it either so I will have to find another degreaser that is safe for plastic and give this a try.

    I do have a question that is probably pretty basic for most people but I want to make sure I do this right. Once you spray the piece with the degreaser (assuming that it is in a spray bottle) do you rinse the piece in soapy water and let it dry or do you just wipe it down the best you can?
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
    Azatrax: MRD8
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    No need to wash or wipe anything, the degreaser evaporates off clean, but I do set the cleaned parts to dry on a paper towel.
    If you are unsure about getting everything back together properly then just remove the trucks and shell.
    Over a small plastic bowl with the trucks in it, hold the still assembled chassis vertically and hose it down heavily using the straw in the nozzle. Rotate the motor so you can blast all the gunk off the commutator and worms, and all other parts. When you feel it’s clean (no sign of grease or oil anywhere) then hold the chassis with the other end up and hose it all down again and set it aside on a paper towel or rag to dry. Then hose down each truck turning the wheels as you go to remove all grease or oil. Also spray it where the axles go into the frame (cup pick-ups).
    Let it dry for an hour or two and reassemble and re-lube.

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    Great news from the Riel Junction Model Railway. I was able to find a can of MotoMaster Electrical Contract Cleaner at Canadian Tire. I took apart the engine, hoses it down real good with the cleaner, put it back together and relubed it and it runs great.

    Thanks again Donzi
    Regards,
    Warren

    Digitrax: DCS210, DB150 AR Booster, BDL168, SE8C, DS64, PR4
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