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Thread: Kato F7 front coupler

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    Default Kato F7 front coupler

    Is there any good way/tricks to getting this back together? I wanted to change the numberboards of this unit (which I did successfully), but this front coupler (and its stupid design..just venting) have kept me from getting everything back together. Barring that, what MT couplers work well with the front of Kato F7s?


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    Kato Diesel F7 & F3 A Kato - 2000 (incl 2004 (001 02 052)Front, 1128 (001 30 012) Rear )

    Look on the first page, third up from the bottom.
    https://www.micro-trains.com/publicf...s/sheet007.pdf

    The 2000 should have a pre-assembled coupler box similar to the 1015's for the front coupler, slide the box into place and then snap the retaining clip back into place.
    I think you can have an option of using a screw to hold it in place instead?

    The 1128 is a T shank version that replaces the KATO coupler in the rear mounted truck. This needs to be assembled then inserted in the truck mounted box.
    Last edited by Allen H.; 20th Jun 2019 at 04:21 PM. Reason: spelling
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    They are a real stinker to get back together. I use a short piece of # 36 magnet wire. Put the coupler together, then wrap two turns of the wire around the shank and twist one turn. Leave enough wire to hold on to. Now you can slip the coupler into the front and hold in place with the wire. Once you get the retainer back in place cut the wire off and remove with tweezers. Works for me:

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    I got the coupler fixed...somewhat. I kept the engine tilted up (held on to it, didn't prop it up where something might press into a surface and get damaged.), put the coupler on then popped the front piece(whatever it's called) into place. I "pinned" the metal strip in there to hopefully keep it in place. I used a pair of tweezers to keep the coupler together while sliding the shell back on. Still wasn't a fun task. The coupler doesn't look quite "right" to me compared to #300, but it does work in pulling a train. Still might convert it to MT's at some point. Not looking forward to picking up 3 more F units to renumber. Might need a drink or three when I'm done!




    The lower headlight in 300 is "off" as I'm running the train at very low speed to get a photo of it with my phone.

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    hhohohohohohoo

    yeah just look at all that kato f-unit goodness!

    victor

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    Quote Originally Posted by SimRacin14 View Post
    I wanted to change the numberboards of this unit
    Where did you get replacement number boards? I need some myself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanB80 View Post
    Where did you get replacement number boards? I need some myself.
    They come with the F units. the B units have them as well.

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    I had the same problem when I did my Royal Pacific paint ... the front couplers disappeared into the ionosphere My solution - left em of.

    I do agree with you that the F3 and F7 Kato's do need a redesign, even if it means they are not completely 100% prototype. There has to be a way to be able to remove the shells without effecting the couplers.
    Cheers Tony

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    i used a body mount coupler has to file just a bit but it worked perfectly. i use rapido couplers and found a body mount that fits in there and still able to use that push down thingy to hold it in place. dont see why it wouldnt work with any other type coupler. the body mount has a hole for a screw and thats where that lil plastic piece fits . now its super easu to change out if need be.

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