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Thread: Railroad Line Models — Farmers Union

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    Default Railroad Line Models — Farmers Union

    I love me a well built, well designed, and not to mention fun craftsman structure. But let's be honest, sometimes they are harder to find in N Scale, especially at a decent price point. So, when I stumbled upon Railroad Line Model's Farmers Union, I was instantly hooked. You can find it (along with the other three kits in their line) all over ebay and various hobby shops for under $20-$25 range.

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    I love the tiny little footprint, unique angles of the roofs, and the limitless potential a little kit like this can provide. I found a good deal for the kit and snatched it up. Here are the contents of the kit:

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    I started out by taping down and spraying the walls with a rattle can Tamiya AS-16 Light Grey. Making sure to get even coverage but not soaking the walls to prevent from them warping. The walls aren't actually basswood but more of a think paper-type material. The engraved cinder block detail is fantastic!

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    I then took a triangle makeup sponge (the kind you get from Target or Walmart for super cheap), ripped off the top edge to give it some texture and then sponged on Light Ivory by Delta Ceramcoat for a chipped paint look. I concentrated on adding more to the top and gradually got lighter as I worked my way down the walls.

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    I like the look of paint scheme that they originally used with white up top and green for the bottom of the building. I masked off the bottoms of the walls with blue painters tape and went with Heritage Brick by Americana as my second color for the bottoms of the walls. Repeating the same type of procedure as the Light Ivory, applied with a sponge to give it a peeled paint look, making sure to I didn't miss the edges of the walls so there weren't any bare spots when the walls are assembled.

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    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    I then braced the two side walls with the roof pitch with 5/32 square wood stock and placed them under some weights to keep them flat while the wood glue dried (no bracing is included in the kit so I used my own).

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    I turned my attention to the decking and wall trim that comes with the kit. I made a wash from three different colors: Burnt Umber, Rain Grey, and Quaker Grey all by Delta Ceramcoat. I applied the wash on both the tops and bottoms of the pieces to help with keeping the warping to a minimum. I placed all the parts under some more weights while they dried.

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    Once dried I dry-brushed the deck and loading dock parts with four different colors: Rusted Pipe, Pewter Grey, Burnt Umber, and a final coat of Bamboo to lighten it up a bit. I took the Rusted Pipe, Pewter Grey and Burnt Umber and mixed them in various shades to my liking and dry-brushed them parallel to the scribed lines to make it appear that the boards were individual and aging differently.

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    Next up, I'll turn to the doors and trim of the building as well as the loading dock. More to follow.
    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    Alright, it's been far too much time since I've updated this thread. Thanks for all the likes and those that have been patiently tracking along.

    Picking up where I left off, I used the same three colors to make a wash over all the additional 'wood' pieces.

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    I glued the base together for the covered loading area. It specifies in the instructions that it's imperative that the holes line up, and they didn't, of course. So, I drilled out the holes with a little pin vice that I had on hand.

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    I dry-brushed all the 'wood' parts with Bamboo by Ceramcoat.

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    I switched my attention to the loading doors and trim of the kit and once again used makeup sponges to apply the Light Ivory and then Heritage Brick on top of that. I made sure to leave some space for the wood color to show through as well.

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    I took some HO Scale 2x2 strip wood and lined the edges of the ramp.

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    Used the peel-n-stick backing to make the loading doors complete.

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    I then glued the support for the loading dock and placed weights on it as it dried.

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    Glued the supports onto the covered loading area floors.

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    Installed the doors (which needed some sanding to fit into the openings properly—better larger than smaller IMO) and glued the walls together using my corner jig from MicroMark.

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    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    I added the support frames for the loading dock.

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    With the four walls glued together, it was time for some test fits and some dreaming for how it was shaping up!

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    Then on to the roofs! They provide a cardboard for the roofing materials. I gently scored the middle of the main buildings roof and bent it for assembly.

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    I glued the roof to the main building. Before I did so, I painted the underside of the roof the same color that I planned on painting the roof (more on that later though).

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    I applied the batten that was provided with the kit with the peel-n-stick backing.

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    I painted the undersides of the other two roofs with Black Grey by Vallejo.

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    Installed the trim.

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    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    Then I trimmed off the excess batten and painted the roof a green color. I dug how the stock model looked with the green roof so I went with it. I mixed about a 50/50 of Folk Art Marsh Fern and Ceramcoat Dark Forest Green.

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    I glued the easement supports to the roof for the covered loading area and did yet another test fit.

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    I applied the supplied tar paper roofing material to the roofs for the overhang and the loading area and painted them the same Vallejo Black Grey. I dry-brushed a light grey and tan over the roof to add some highlights. Then I took two slices of corrugated paper material from Wild West Models (https://www.wildwestmodels.com/produ...d-roofing.html) which are SUPER easy to work with and used the same method with the makeup sponges to apply rust colors and attached them to the roof for variety. In addition, I also attached two left over pieces of strip wood to the roofs for added effect.

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    I added the support for the loading dock overhang and added in the cross bracing with some stock HO Scale 1x2's painted with the same three-colored wash I have been using on both the front and back of the loading dock. It's a bummer that it's not supplied already but not a deal breaker for me, and honestly, you can get away without it if you choose.

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    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    Next is on to my favorite parts, signs, weathering, and detailing!

    I started by compiling a few additional signs that I had in a file folder on my computer and scaling them down to size. I decided to continue on with the manufactures idea that the building be a produce and dairy transfer station. I wanted to name the kit after my grandparents, Darrel and Adeline, who lived in the midwest. I always had fond memories of growing up at their place in Wisconsin and produce and dairy are two things that there are NOT a shortage of there so it all seemed logical.

    I designed a few options for what would be the roof and side walls in Adobe Illustrator and settled on D.A. Land as the transfer company name.

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    I did some sponge weathering with rust colored acrylics and Pan Pastels and applied the signs to the wall. I took a piece of .20x.250 styrene strip and painted the back of it an Alluminum color by Model Master. I applied the roof top sign to it and gave it a bit of weathering as well. I added some HO Scale 2x2 strip wood to the back and made a simple little roof support and attached it to the roof.

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    I then glued the loading dock, loading dock roof and the larger loading area to the building and placed it on the layout to get some shots.

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    More to come with details and a little scenic base!
    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    Now to details. I took some castings I've collected and started to clean them up. The one I wanted to add was a box/crate clump casting from Bar Mills but it was just too big for my taste with this little kit. I took out my jewelers saw and got to cutting. Cleaned it up with a file set and wallah, two separate box castings, that if placed properly, no one will ever see the other side of.

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    I painted the castings with a flat white primer (all I had on hand otherwise I would've gone with grey) and waited for them to dry.

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    With the downtime in waiting for the castings to dry, I turned to my workbench for a much needed clean! It was getting messy.

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    Before I start painting or glue any castings down, I like to take a few days to mess around with the placement. This also gives me a good chance to think about the colors that they castings will get painted. Here's where I landed with round one:

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    Open to feedback/comments/suggestions! Thanks for hanging with the process this far.
    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    I think it's finished! I wanted to mount the building to a base for easier addition to the layout at a later date. I have an idea of where it'll go, but not entirely sure yet. I'm still in the planning stages for it's final local.

    I cut a small piece of .040 styrene as the base and bevelled the edges for easier blending of scenery later and painted it a lighter brown color for the base. I marked out where the building will end up so I didn't add a bunch of extra scenery materials where it'll be glued.

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    I painted all the casting with various acrylic colors, gave them a wash of watered down black acrylic and dry-brushed them an off white.

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    I glued them in place with CA and added a Preiser figure for "life."

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    Although I didn't get any in-progress shots, I applied a layer of dirt from my backyard, some Woodland Scenics burnt grass fine turf, Woodland Scenics coarse turf, and some tufts/weeds from Martin Welberg. Gave the entire thing an alcohol wetting and added scenic cement. After it was dry I glued the building to the base and called it good. Below is the finished product. I'm sure that I'll still do a bit more weathering to the roofs and walk ways once I find a permanent location for it.

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    Overall this was a fun kit to build and I encourage everyone to give it a shot. It's perfect to test the waters for those wanting to get into craftsman kits and at a lower price point, well worth it for that alone.
    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    Excellent Sean!
    The Little Rock Line blog


    “Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin

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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen H. View Post
    Excellent Sean!
    Thank you, Allen! I appreciate the kind words.
    Sean C
    Seattle, WA


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    Wow, very nice. I have a small feed store that I might have to borrow some of your techniques. Thank you.

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