Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: New Atlas SD50 SD60M with ESU Sound

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default New Atlas SD50 SD60M with ESU Sound

    Hi everyone! Anyone get their shipment of these locos yet?
    I received my 3 Conrail units and have been happy - for the most part.
    Like the Intermountain complaint, the lights are too dim.
    I think the sound might be turned up a little too high from factory. Seems like I notice some cracking when I press the horn. Anyone else notice this behavior? Maybe I'm being too sensitive.

    Also, anyone notice the wheels being a little out of gauge? Mine seem to really hop over the turnouts. I haven't been able to find my NMRA gauge to verify.
    For the price, I would have hoped not to see any issues.

    I'm also curious how well these will MU with Intermountain SD40-2s? I hope to try that soon.

    Curious of your thoughts?

    JAY

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,208
    Thanks
    1,751
    Thanked 1,526 Times in 658 Posts
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Don't remember if it was Atlas, Scaletrains or Intermountain or someone else I don't remember, but at our modular meet last weekend we found the manufacturer had turned the volume to 140% of what ESU considered maximum.

    So no big surprise the decoder was clipping (plus if you have more than one or two of those units, it's going to go grinding on your nerves at that volume). Turned it down to 30% or so and it was great.

    Heiko

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to Heiko For This Useful Post:


  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Heiko View Post
    Don't remember if it was Atlas, Scaletrains or Intermountain or someone else I don't remember, but at our modular meet last weekend we found the manufacturer had turned the volume to 140% of what ESU considered maximum.

    So no big surprise the decoder was clipping (plus if you have more than one or two of those units, it's going to go grinding on your nerves at that volume). Turned it down to 30% or so and it was great.

    Heiko
    I will try this tonight. Thanks!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,096
    Thanks
    43
    Thanked 413 Times in 235 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I've had my N scale SD60 with ESU sound for years.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I turned down the sound and it's much better. It was pretty much cranked to the max.

    The bell is very quiet. Does anyone know how to change the bell volume? I checked ESU's tech information and the CV that says should control the sound of the bell is 0 meaning muted - however, it's not muted. So I must be missing something.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    2,963
    Thanks
    1,265
    Thanked 4,177 Times in 1,350 Posts
    Mentioned
    55 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gatrhumpy View Post
    I've had my N scale SD60 with ESU sound for years.
    Same here, but I'm glad these factory installs are becoming the norm. So much cleaner under the hood.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,096
    Thanks
    43
    Thanked 413 Times in 235 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Absolutely!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Twin Cities, Minnesota
    Posts
    1,825
    Thanks
    967
    Thanked 5,023 Times in 1,054 Posts
    Mentioned
    157 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I think the problem with the lighting is that the LEDs on the decoders are much farther away from the light-conducting plastic in the shell than they used to be. The headlight, backup light and number boards are barely visible on my UP SD60.

    Old -



    New -



    -Mark

  10. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Spookshow For This Useful Post:


  11. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Really good point Mark. Any ideas on how to 'easily' make this better?

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,778
    Thanks
    2,074
    Thanked 2,450 Times in 990 Posts
    Mentioned
    47 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Regarding the bell, I think the volumes of the bell, horn, prime mover, etc. can be adjusted independently. You'll need to look in the ESU manual for the CVs though.

  13. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Twin Cities, Minnesota
    Posts
    1,825
    Thanks
    967
    Thanked 5,023 Times in 1,054 Posts
    Mentioned
    157 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jayareed View Post
    Really good point Mark. Any ideas on how to 'easily' make this better?
    Maybe some lightpipe extensions? What a pain, though.

    -Mark

  14. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,208
    Thanks
    1,751
    Thanked 1,526 Times in 658 Posts
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jayareed View Post
    Really good point Mark. Any ideas on how to 'easily' make this better?
    Definitely a very good point. I had similar issues when digitizing my large Kato locos (C44-9, SD70MAC) with decoders made for the SD40-2. I used the original golden white 3mm LEDs from the DC light board, but since you got the loco with decoder installed:

    Grab a couple of 3mm white / golden white LEDs, place the engine on some track, turn on lights, check the polarity of the SMD LEDs with your DMM.

    Then unsolder the SMD LEDs from the ESU decoder and attach the leads of the 3mm LEDs at those pads (longer lead is positive - cut leads to proper length before soldering). I can't see from Mark's pictures if there are holes in the PCB next to the SMD LEDs, that would make life easier - if not, I'd add a drop of CA after soldering to stick the LED leads to the PCB.

    Or: Grab some SMD LEDs with magnet wire like these: https://lighthouseleds.com/0402-pico...ra-bright.html (no experience with that shop) and glue them directly to the ends of the lightpipes. Will leave you with a bunch of magnet wire between decoder and shell, though.

    YMMV,
    Heiko

  15. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,208
    Thanks
    1,751
    Thanked 1,526 Times in 658 Posts
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Sorry, don't grab the LEDs in my link to replace already installed LEDs. They are pre-wired with a resistor for 12V, but another resistor is already included in the decoder, so it will probably be pretty dim... but there are similar ones without that resistor available on the web and the large auction sites.

    You can use the ones with integrated resistor for additional functions that don't have any resistor on the decoder.

    Heiko

  16. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OTFan View Post
    Regarding the bell, I think the volumes of the bell, horn, prime mover, etc. can be adjusted independently. You'll need to look in the ESU manual for the CVs though.
    Thank you. Yes...took a look at those settings for the bell and they are at 0. That should mean disabled according to esu documentation. That's not making sence....

  17. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    1,778
    Thanks
    2,074
    Thanked 2,450 Times in 990 Posts
    Mentioned
    47 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jayareed View Post
    Yes...took a look at those settings for the bell and they are at 0. That should mean disabled according to esu documentation. That's not making sence....
    Oops, I didn't read your earlier post carefully enough - you already knew that. Beyond adjusting the CV for bell volume and seeing what happens... I dunno. On my loksound select, the master volume is CV 63 and the bell volume is CV 283. The manual has this blurb:

    "The master volume control CV 63 controls all sound effects. The resulting sound volume for each individual sound effect therefore is a mixture of the master volume control settings and the individual volume control sliders."

    Maybe that means that even if you have the bell volume individually at 0, the actual volume will be midway between 0 and whatever you have the master volume set at? That's just a guess.

  18. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OTFan View Post
    Oops, I didn't read your earlier post carefully enough - you already knew that. Beyond adjusting the CV for bell volume and seeing what happens... I dunno. On my loksound select, the master volume is CV 63 and the bell volume is CV 283. The manual has this blurb:

    "The master volume control CV 63 controls all sound effects. The resulting sound volume for each individual sound effect therefore is a mixture of the master volume control settings and the individual volume control sliders."

    Maybe that means that even if you have the bell volume individually at 0, the actual volume will be midway between 0 and whatever you have the master volume set at? That's just a guess.
    Good point! It might default to general setting if nothing's in that CV. I'll give this a try. I wont be home for a week but will report what I find then. Thanks!

  19. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,208
    Thanks
    1,751
    Thanked 1,526 Times in 658 Posts
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I remember on (some) Digitrax decoders 1 actually means mute, 0 means something else. Don't recall what...

    Also make sure you have the exact documentation for that decoder and sound project - those LokSounds are notorious for their thousands of CVs which all mean different things depending on the sound project that has been loaded... at least that's what I've been reading on the jmri user group over at groups.io.

    Heiko

  20. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    240
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 45 Times in 27 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    FYI - I found my wheel gauge tool and the wheels are waaaaaaay off gauge. I had to pull them out. Almost each axle. Now they run through the turnouts like a champ!

  21. The Following User Says Thank You to jayareed For This Useful Post:


Similar Threads

  1. Sound in SD60m
    By Dale S in forum DCC
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 5th Jun 2016, 02:01 PM
  2. Atlas SD60M leans to one side
    By pbechard in forum Diesel
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 21st Nov 2015, 05:51 AM
  3. Sound for Atlas SD50/60/60M
    By Solarnet in forum DCC
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 23rd Jan 2015, 10:12 AM
  4. Replies: 11
    Last Post: 16th Apr 2011, 04:01 PM
  5. Atlas SD60M Cab Question
    By alco_haulic in forum Diesel
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 26th Dec 2004, 11:37 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •