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Thread: Weathering patched road names, numbers and data?

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    Default Weathering patched road names, numbers and data?

    I've got some coal hoppers that I'd like to get this effect on:
    http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/sho...spx?id=2356536
    Basically I want it to look like the road name, number, and data that are printed on the model were patched in over whatever was there before. Has anyone succeeded in doing this? My attempts at masking off the road name and numbers ended up looking like a bad decal job.

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    @NtheBasement

    Not really sure what you are asking but if all you want to do is replicate the dark grey/black patches with the updated road name etc on them then it should be easy. Mask off the current unwanted decals, paint over them then apply the new decals over the "patch work". I think that would be a better result than trying to "mask" everything off.

    If that isn't what you are after then can you elaborate please.
    Cheers Tony

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    No decals. Instead of painting new names/numbers/data on a weathered hulk, I want to leave the old names/numbers/data alone so they will look freshly painted while I weather the rest of the car. Don't laugh, here is my hacked up attempt:
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I tried masking them off each letter they stay shiny and new-looking while the rest of the car is weathered, but cutting and applying itty bits of masking is easier said than done, and the weathering stuff collects along and under the edges of the masking tape, making them look totally off. Even cutting the tiny tape squares is a major challenge; you can see the Xacto kerfs when I tried trimming the top edges after putting the tape on the car.

    Wondering if anyone has succeeded at this and what materials and techniques were used.

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    @Nthbasement

    To be honest with you - I think that looks good considering what you are wanting to do. I doubt any changes by railways in the real world would look nice and neat and pristine. I think you have come up with a very realistic result.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by NtheBasement View Post
    and the weathering stuff collects along and under the edges of the masking tape
    I had this same issue when I tried it, using masking tape and oil paints to weather. I'm not much help with a solution, but I can confirm you aren't the only one who's had that problem

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    I’ve done this method. I mask the areas I want to look newer and then spray a mix of 1 part paint and 10 parts 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. I use a hair dryer as I’m painting to dry the coats quickly. Use many light coats. The first couple might not look like anything is happening, but the effect adds up fast.
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    I'll try light spritzes with 1:10 acrylic to rubbing alcohol to avoid the heavy layer in the corners.

    What are you using to do the masking? Once I get the tape cut to itty bitty pieces and then pick them up off the mat and put them on the car, all the sticky has squished around and doesn't seal at the edges. I thinking of trying the stuff in my label maker - thin and with a peel off backing that I can pull after cutting. But I'm picturing major frustration trying to pick the itty bitty backing off the itty bitty piece of tape.

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    Your extreme close up, while demonstrating your point, does not do justice to the effort. From average viewing distance, 2-3 feet, this probably looks a lot better.
    As you repeat, you will get better. Looks like a more time effective way to do the patches while weathering the car.

    Share a pic from further back?
    Steve - Jugtown Modeler..............Don't know enough about railroading yet, but scale modeling is my life..............Web-Folio

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    @jpwisc has the right idea, Isopropyl Alcohol is the key ingredient as well as light coats.
    @NtheBasement, your not going to get away from masking the lettering you want to keep. Try Tamiya masking tape, it's thinner than the standard tape. Next, dullcoat the car, ensuring the masked tape is sprayed, it'll seal the edges so no weathering 'bleed' into the saved area except for some dullcoat. Lastly, mist the dullcoated area with Isopropyl Alcohol, just a fine mist. It'll react and 'fade' the dullcoat, hopefully getting the result you want, but I strongly recommend you try this first on an old shell or even paint some styrene and try it.
    And, as usual, Moose rule #1, photos, lotsa photos!!!
    Cheers,

    Russ

    CEO of Devil's Gate Mining Co.



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    Quote Originally Posted by mosslake View Post
    Lastly, mist the dullcoated area with Isopropyl Alcohol, just a fine mist. It'll react and 'fade' the dullcoat
    I tried this method in the past (without the masking) and did not like the results. Too blotchy, even with my finest mister. It would be perfect though if the car was carrying lime. But sealing with dullcoat over the mask is a great idea.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NtheBasement View Post
    I tried this method in the past (without the masking) and did not like the results. Too blotchy, even with my finest mister. It would be perfect though if the car was carrying lime. But sealing with dullcoat over the mask is a great idea.
    Yep, I've seen it work really well and other times, a dismal failure. That's why i recommended trying it first. I think it comes down to the Isopropyl alcohol, it depends on brand and just how well the coverage is.
    Cheers,

    Russ

    CEO of Devil's Gate Mining Co.



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    The blotchiness that comes from Isopropyl Alcohol occurs when you apply too much and dry it too quickly. I’ve been using IPA for over 10 years. The layers need to be just enough to dampen the surface, then they need to dry (the hairdryer helps here). Every once in a while I will over apply and then you get that result.
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    The layers need to be just enough to dampen the surface, then they need to dry (the hairdryer helps here). Every once in a while I will over apply and then you get that result.
    Thanks for that!! I knew there was something in how it's applied, would a damp tissue and blotted on work?
    Cheers,

    Russ

    CEO of Devil's Gate Mining Co.



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    Quote Originally Posted by mosslake View Post
    Thanks for that!! I knew there was something in how it's applied, would a damp tissue and blotted on work?
    I don’t know, I airbrush it at about 28 psi
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    That's a good idea!! Didn't think of the airbrush.
    Cheers,

    Russ

    CEO of Devil's Gate Mining Co.



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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    I airbrush it
    Ahh, airbrush. Not that I have one, but I've seen excellent paint fades using an airbrush and diluted paint - very even coverage similar to prototype: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/sho...spx?id=4888390.

    Any pics using isopropyl on Dullcoat?

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    Quote Originally Posted by NtheBasement View Post
    Any pics using isopropyl on Dullcoat?
    I stopped using Dullcoat a while back. It’s too irregular coming out of the can. I switched to airbrushing Testor’s gloss and matte coats.

    I think this one might have been from my Dullcoat days... the BN logo was wet sanded before applying the fade fixture.
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    Using a good quality masking tape will help as well fresh sharp cutting tools and guides for the cutting. Tamiya make excellent tapes for this job in several widths. Cut the sizes of tape on a clean piece of glass, make sure you use a straight edge to get good 90 degree angles on the corners and the straight edges are straight. Burnish the tape before you paint/spray you colours. Work in very light coats and the first coat will help seal the edge of the tape for the next layers. The smoother the finish you are taping will help ensure you have a good seal so the paint doesn't bleed under.

    It would be best to cut the masking and then apply the tape to area you want covered rather that cutting the tape in place.

    I've been painting aircraft models for decades so much of this is learned from experience before the internet.

    Good Luck

    Craig
    Last edited by baldwin; 21st Dec 2019 at 11:15 AM. Reason: information

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    Great post Craig (@baldwin)
    To add to what he said, only use the the edge that you cut for the masking edge.
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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