Poll: Would you buy 3D resin printed buildings? Please select all that apply.

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Thread: 3D printed buildings - design questions

  1. #1
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    Default 3D printed buildings - design questions

    As I wait to save enough money for a 3D resin printer, I'm thinking why not make the items I design and print available to other modelers.

    So, to get a feeling for the market, so to speak, I'll be posting a series of polls.

    Your input will be greatly appreciated.
    - Gary R.

    President & CEO
    Pinnacle & Western Railroad

    Never under-do the over-kill.

    I don't always stop for trains, but when ... oh wait!, Yes I do.

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    Buildings no , parts of buildings yes. Getting a 3d printer myself , as will many others the next 1-2 years , they are becoming affordable and printing better, just like the 2D printers , I compare it with going from dot-matrix printers to inkjet.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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    Most likely not...but windows and doors....
    Modeling the Pacific Electric Playa Desnuda Branch in N Scale

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    I've been building structures for my N-scale layout for three years. I have a few comments that may be pertinent to the discussion.

    1. XYZ printing has a very inexpensive printer called the "Mini". It will do a cube 150mm (6") on a side. That's big enough to do a LOT of the stuff we work with.

    2. The filament (PLA) that the Mini uses is fairly expensive ... $25 or so for a spool big enough to do five or six moderate size buildings, bridges, tunnels, etc. There are tricks we can use to cut this cost in half and if this thread takes off and we actually form a library I'm willing to donate all my designs PLUS the trick for the good of the organization.

    3. I'm getting ready to do a mountain and here is the tunnel & portals through the mountain. THe portals were about two hours each. The tunnels were done with 50mm long segments held together after all 3 of them were held together with small dabs of hot glue. Longer tunnel? Just print more 50mm segments and glue them together.

    PLEASE NOTE: XYZ Support is the WORST support that I've ever seen. Absolutely garbage. If you are COMPLETELY computer literate you can thrash your way through the updates and updates and updated^2, none of them that are compatible with prior amendments and then some second team comes along and completely changes the game with "New and Improved" software. And then the third team. I've been doing this software thing for fifty years and this is the WORST I've ever seen. THe hardware is GREAT, the software SUCKS.

    Jim

    S-Mtn Tunnel.jpg
    Last edited by jweir43; 20th Mar 2020 at 06:47 PM.

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    I’ve bought 3D printer details myself, even a 2 car garage. I did get a printer last year, and I’ve been printing all sorts of things from vehicles to freight cars. I would be more interested in buying the files if they turn out well. I’d rather print them myself.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    I would consider it. I would really have to see the finished product first tho. Not all 3d printing is created equal. I've seen a lot of 3d printed buildings on ebay but never one I would buy. There are some really horrid designs out there, and some of the cheaper machines just don't have the resolution to make me want to hand over my money for the product.

    That said I have seen some amazing stuff from the Anycubic Photon. I still can't get any feedback on how brittle that stuff is, and I haven't seen what I really need made on that machine (yet) but I have to say, some of the items I've seen people make on that machine I would not immediately reject for resolution. Some looks to have resolution nearly equal to injection molding. The "look at it funny and it snaps" quality of Shapeways FUD has really soured me on spending any more money on 3d printed stuff tho.

    Quality of the design and execution of the 3d model file vary so widely from maker to maker that it's pretty much impossible to say yes or no to the question "Would you buy 3d printed buildings?" as asked.
    "Do Not Hump!?!?! Does that mean what I think it means?!?"--Michelle Blanchard

    "People saw wood and say nothing, but railroad men saw trains and say things that are better left unprinted."--Charles De Lano Hine

    Down with UP

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    @ranulf I print with a Photon and it is still a little brittle. I have done handrails on some equipment and it will survive a USPS shipping if picked right. For buildings it is more than durable enough. If the design is right, it can be very resilient.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Quote Originally Posted by Janbouli View Post
    Buildings no , parts of buildings yes.
    ^This. Roof top vents, HVAC units, electrical meters, water meters, odds and ends you'd see piled next to or leaned up against a building, etc.

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    Gary,

    I'll start by saying that I have 3 Photon's now. I've had the first two for about 16 months and I just got the third one about 3 weeks ago. I've used over 8 liters of resin since I got the first one. So, I'm guessing I do have a little experience with resin printing.

    I'm going to guess that you must be very good a 3D modeling to try printing a whole building. If your going to try to print one piece buildings with a resin printer that is in the under $500 range, It's going to be a small one then. To get a larger print area, you going to have to get into the $2000 to $5000 range.

    I've tried to do brick wall sections sorta like the modular kits, and didn't like the way the walls look after they were glued together. The seam was very obvious and I tried several attempts to clean it up with little success. I was trying to interlace the bricks for the joining pieces. I'll have to see if I can find some of those parts and take photos of them, so you'll see what I mean.

    Now, the Photons are great for detail parts like doors, windows, vents, AC units and stuff like that. The last few days, I've been printing farm animals. Just finished cleaning and curing 106 cows and they are now ready for paint. Before that, did several hundred chickens, some foxes, dogs, cats and a few moose. Now have some more windows and doors printing. I got about 10 hours worth of work so far in this 64 GMC propane truck between trial prints and making the propane bed fits the truck chassis. I've probably printed 300 to 400 trucks from Z scale all the way up to S scale.

    N and Z scale rolling stock pieces print well too.





















    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodsup9000 View Post
    Gary,

    I'll start by saying that I have 3 Photon's now. I've had the first two for about 16 months and I just got the third one about 3 weeks ago. I've used over 8 liters of resin since I got the first one. So, I'm guessing I do have a little experience with resin printing.

    I'm going to guess that you must be very good a 3D modeling to try printing a whole building. If your going to try to print one piece buildings with a resin printer that is in the under $500 range, It's going to be a small one then. To get a larger print area, you going to have to get into the $2000 to $5000 range.

    I've tried to do brick wall sections sorta like the modular kits, and didn't like the way the walls look after they were glued together. The seam was very obvious and I tried several attempts to clean it up with little success. I was trying to interlace the bricks for the joining pieces. I'll have to see if I can find some of those parts and take photos of them, so you'll see what I mean.

    Now, the Photons are great for detail parts like doors, windows, vents, AC units and stuff like that. The last few days, I've been printing farm animals. Just finished cleaning and curing 106 cows and they are now ready for paint. Before that, did several hundred chickens, some foxes, dogs, cats and a few moose. Now have some more windows and doors printing. I got about 10 hours worth of work so far in this 64 GMC propane truck between trial prints and making the propane bed fits the truck chassis. I've probably printed 300 to 400 trucks from Z scale all the way up to S scale.

    N and Z scale rolling stock pieces print well too.
    @Rodsup9000

    Sounds like you're a pro at this by now. What is your experience with different resins? Are there any resins more suitable for these types of models than other types of resins? I'm assuming better LCD screen resolution generally means better quality prints?

    My first 'real' print will probably be a variation of the 'Witch House' project I've been working on. (https://www.nscale.net/forums/showth...rt-the-second)).

    For designing, I've settled on OpenSCAD. It's design appeals to me as a programmer in that I can develope parameterized re-usable modules. This also allows me to easily break out any parts I might want to print seperately.

    The attached image is the latest render of the second iteration of the 'Witch House', still somewhat in developement.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    - Gary R.

    President & CEO
    Pinnacle & Western Railroad

    Never under-do the over-kill.

    I don't always stop for trains, but when ... oh wait!, Yes I do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Rowan View Post
    Sounds like you're a pro at this by now. What is your experience with different resins? Are there any resins more suitable for these types of models than other types of resins? I'm assuming better LCD screen resolution generally means better quality prints?

    My first 'real' print will probably be a variation of the 'Witch House' project I've been working on. (https://www.nscale.net/forums/showth...rt-the-second)).

    For designing, I've settled on OpenSCAD. It's design appeals to me as a programmer in that I can develope parameterized re-usable modules. This also allows me to easily break out any parts I might want to print seperately.

    The attached image is the latest render of the second iteration of the 'Witch House', still somewhat in developement.

    Not anywhere near a pro, just like making things for the rr.

    Yes, better screen=better prints

    That is very good rendering, Gary. I'll say "you can draw" good enough to print.

    Amazon has the Photon for $269 and with $20 off coupon making it $249 total price (this is the deal I used to get my last one). This one doesn't come with any resin or extra FEP film like the 2 others I bought. So if you get this one, you'll need to buy some resin to get started.


    I've only used 2 brands of resin so far, Anycubic and Elegoo.

    I've used gray the most. Anycubic is brittle compered to the Elegoo, but the Elegoo is somewhat sticky after final curing.
    I mixed the two in equal parts and I really like the prints. The brittleness is almost gone and the sticky is gone.
    I've started mixing the Anycubic and Elegoo white's together also for the same reason

    I've done a few prints with Anycubic translucent green and amber. What I've done was OK.

    I did a few prints with Anycubic red and it's somewhat translucent, but printed fine.


    There is a lot of different resins that can be used and I will be trying some more this summer.
    Monocure has some "flexible" that I want to try next.
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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    Good Evening Guys,

    If you're purchasing a 3D resin printer($250) here are a few of the extra items you may need:

    For cleaning the printed parts - pickle jars, toothbrush, ultrasonic cleaner.

    For curing the parts - UV lamp.

    Consumables - resin, nitrile gloves, paper towels, cleaning solution(alcohol, Mr Clean Green, Mean Green) replacement FEP film.

    Ventilation - spray booth with outside exhaust vent or breathing mask.

    If you're using different colors of resin, consider purchasing a tank for each to reduce cleaning requirements.

    Regarding printing buildings...I've done a 12x24 hot dog stand as a single piece.

    For larger buildings, I print the four walls flat with 45 degree bevels on the edges. Since the printer is limited to 2.5" by 4", a 33'x53' wall is the limit.

    My favorite effects are the illuminated signs. I use clear resin, print the sign with raised text, paint it white to reflect the light, paint a dark color over the white, sand the paint off the face of the letters and illuminate using leds. The clear resin transmits the light giving a beautiful neon sign effect.
    Happy Modeling

    Bruce

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