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Thread: Farmhouse Build

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    Default Farmhouse Build

    Yesterday I received the first of a number of kits I have recently purchased, that kit is the American Model Builders Two Story Farmhouse with Porch Kit. This will be one of the buildings on my Interim Layout.

    At first glance, it looks like a VERY nice, very well detailed Kit with excellent instructions and looks to be a fairly easy kit to construct.

    Pictures of the build posted as each step of the build is completed.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Default And so it begins...

    So far so good I think:




















    Now it's time to decide on what to paint it, or whether or not to paint it at all. My gut tells me to paint it Grey with white trim which, I think, would be a fairly standard color scheme for the building?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quick question about painting these things (Laser Cut Kits with Tabs). If I were to paint it, I'll have to use a rattle can of Model Master Lacquer. Has anyone experienced any issues with the "little slots" becoming clogged, even a little, when painting?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Because I cannot go any further with this until I painted what was done - I did give it a light coat of white primer to see what would happen. Not sure if it looks okay or not ??

    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    Because I cannot go any further with this until I painted what was done - I did give it a light coat of white primer to see what would happen. Not sure if it looks okay or not ??

    https://i.imgur.com/5tHQesu.jpg
    White gives the appearance that it could be a barracks or other military building.
    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)

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    @Moose2013

    It could be a barracks of some kind, that is true, but think I will keep it as a house ... not sure if the "Towns Folk" would appreciate a barracks in the middle of their main street

    Now I have looked at the kit in a bit more detail, the "other parts", I think I will be using them as they came - no painting of them. Perhaps once this kit is completed and I can see exactly how the parts go together, what is shown and what is covered, I might do a bit more painting with the next kit/s.

    Basically, I'm just playing it safe until I become better acquainted with these types of kits.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Hard to go wrong with a white primer coat, Tony. Especially if you are planning on using water-borne paint for a top coat. Wood being wood, the primer seals the wood and helps curb the "warps" that water can induce.

    I built (and reviewed for RMC) my first AMB N scale kit back in 1994, the general purpose building. Made it a division point station for my Cascade Pacific layout. Hit it with a coat of Floquil reefer white.

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    @Paul Schmidt

    Hmmm, what is this "Top Coat" you speak of ... ?

    My plan, as I am a coward, is to leave the white primer as the final color. I think it gives the thing a more "aged" appearance, or that could just be my spray job too. True, it might not be perfect but I think it will work okay for now.

    Once I am more confident putting the laser cut structures together and how well (or not so well) they handle being sprayed, I will (probably) use a top coat to completely seal everything and give each building an identity of its own by virtue of the color.

    The other, and main, reason I'm not going to use a top coat is because I only have white and grey primer in rattle cans, and I don't really want to break out the spray gun just yet. The last time I tried hand painting a wooden structure it looked like the proverbial poo
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    White and red were the more common colors back in the day, Tony. Wasn't much else to choose from. Perhaps blue if you were wealthier.

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    @Paul Schmidt

    Thanks for the tip, the blue sounds like a good option But (for the moment) leaving the trim etc the brown color they come in wouldn't be too far from being realistic.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    This is slow going but have some of the trim on:



    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Just started "TRYING" to put the darn windows in this thing .... whoever made this must have really had a sense of humor! There are 4 parts to each window, the "glass", the window/s themselves and then there is the door and window frames ontop of that.

    By the time I finish them, I'll be in the loony bin ........ oh wait, I'm here so I already am
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Okay, enough is enough - these windows are ridiculous, pure and simple! They're supposed to be self adhesive ... they aren't! Why they were made in 2 parts, not including the 2 part glass, is beyond me. The way they were made might be okay for HO or larger, but for N Scale - they just don't work. I can only hope that not ALL manufacturers make their windows this way

    Not sure what I am going to do at this stage, but if I can't come up with a way to make these things work, this building just might end up NOT having windows, or at least not the ones that come with the kit. This is very disappointing

    I think at the moment I'm going to have to glue the two window parts together and go from there. Once that is done, I'll gave to try to glue the "glass" to the frames then the whole shootin' match to the inside of the walls ... I don't know, I'm just ranting all I know is I have 18 main windows to do of which I have messed up 2 already, and a further 2 "kitchen windows" plus doors ...
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    Just started "TRYING" to put the darn windows in this thing .... whoever made this must have really had a sense of humor! There are 4 parts to each window, the "glass", the window/s themselves and then there is the door and window frames ontop of that.

    By the time I finish them, I'll be in the loony bin ........ oh wait, I'm here so I already am
    I thought it was just me! I am building a "Laser Art" Company House (Branchline trains). The door shown was three parts but windows are five parts. These use peel and stick parts. I went with white as a color since it seems to be the most common for these types of homes. Those tiny parts are going to drive me crazy!
    Good luck!
    Maurice
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    I think you've found the solution, Tony. IIRC, I began gluing the upper and lower sashes together. After those subassemblies dried, I continued. I didn't add the "glass" until after painting.

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    Sorry if I look like a show off , did this one a few years ago , I don't seem to have done a build thread on it, but I do have a few photo's of it with the RSlaser Mill . It's finicky , but the result is well worth it Tony , I think it's the best looking farmhouse available.





    More at http://janbouli.com/?p=mill.html
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    It's superb! Any window assembly tricks you can share, @Janbouli.

    I've loved laser-cut kits from the get-go, but in N scale the windows can be a right pain. ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Schmidt View Post
    It's superb! Any window assembly tricks you can share, @Janbouli.

    I've loved laser-cut kits from the get-go, but in N scale the windows can be a right pain. ...
    Don't know about tricks , I am always grateful when they are peel and stick , makes it a lot easier. Oh and I almost always do the windows before putting the walls together , sorry Tony , that advice is a bit too late for you. You have to paint first of course to do that. Then if there's a frame on the outside do those first . Then lay the wall down flat outside down, and stick the windows in the hole to the frame. I build up all the windows before I start putting them in place.

    If you paint the walls before assembly don't forget to brace them , what I actually do with all wooden kits.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

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    Nice photos, all. I have also struggled with those windows, but using OptiVisor helped so I could actually see what I was doing. Manipulated the parts together with the end of an Xacto blade. If you want to light the interior, I suggest painting interior walls black - lights can shine through these wooden walls, as they do through plastic.

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    What Jan said...found wood kits are best painted before you put them together as well as brace and get windows in, etc. Painting before hand allows you to control any warping...paint, let it dry for about 15 minutes then sandwich it down between a couple boards or books whatever with some weights on it for about 24 hours.

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