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Thread: Rolling Stock Approval

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    Default Rolling Stock Approval

    Hi All,

    now that my layout is wired for DCC and running I'm going to start introducing my stock a little at a time
    I was wondering if anyone used some kind of approval process / checklist before allowing stock on the layout? I've got a bunch of old cars (and new) and want to maximise reliability
    so wanted to test and approve them bit by bit

    Cheers

    G.
    Currently building the Nova Scotia South Shore .. my N scale empire on two hollow core doors

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    I have a set process before anything goes on the layout.
    1) Add any missing details (i.e. crossover platforms)
    2) Weather
    3) Metal wheels (check trucks for flatness and wheels for gauge) I paint my wheels in a MinuteMan jig
    4) Double check for smooth rolling
    5) Check coupler for centering and height, tune as necessary, I do body mount where I can
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    haven't weathered anything yet.. but have bee thinking about light weathering.. maybe I should get a few old cars that would fail from a running point of view and have a try
    Currently building the Nova Scotia South Shore .. my N scale empire on two hollow core doors

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    Hi Grumbeast,

    Make sure the car weight is correct.

    Are the couplers at the correct height?

    Do the couplers uncouple/couple reliably?

    Using a test track...Does the car start rolling on a 2-3% grade?
    Is there any wheel wobble while rolling?
    Does the car roll back and forth through a turnout without shuddering at the frog and points?
    Happy Modeling

    Bruce

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    Metal wheels (check trucks for flatness and wheels for gauge) I paint my wheels in a MinuteMan jig
    I have had a question about this for awhile, and hope it's not too dumb, but guessing not the only one that has it. How do we know what wheels/trucks to use on any particular brand/style of car?
    -Will

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    Micrograms.com has a listing for swapping couplers. Body mount or truck mounted. You can purchase them in kit form or assembled. Find a good digital micrometer to measure the axle of the old wheelsets. You can then order new wheels either plastic or metal.
    A simple man trying to run my trains...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tefsom85 View Post
    I have had a question about this for awhile, and hope it's not too dumb, but guessing not the only one that has it. How do we know what wheels/trucks to use on any particular brand/style of car?

    That one really depends on the specific car, era and a whole bunch of other factors for trucks

    Wheels less so but it's still a process you'll have to get a feel for, best thing to do is ask us on a car by car basis until you start to get an idea of what goes on what.

    I will say if you're going with Micro-Trains trucks (which I'd strongly recommend) your wheel set's axles are gonna be .540 in length. Actual wheel size based on specific prototype
    :bottle::bottle::gdl::mp15:

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    Quote Originally Posted by NSNYSWFAN74 View Post
    Micrograms.com has a listing for swapping couplers. Body mount or truck mounted. You can purchase them in kit form or assembled. Find a good digital micrometer to measure the axle of the old wheelsets. You can then order new wheels either plastic or metal.
    I think that you might mean https://micro-trains.com
    Modeling the Pacific Electric Playa Desnuda Branch in N Scale

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    Yes I did. My auto correct seems to always get me.
    A simple man trying to run my trains...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tefsom85 View Post
    I have had a question about this for awhile, and hope it's not too dumb, but guessing not the only one that has it. How do we know what wheels/trucks to use on any particular brand/style of car?
    I will usually reuse the factory trucks. I spray them with Dullcoat and weather them with some Pan Pastels. The wheels I will swap for FVM metal wheels. The safe bet is to measure the length of the axles you took off and use the appropriate length FVM wheelset. I use 33” wheels on most of my rolling stock. The flange on a 33” N Scale metal wheel measures out the the same size as the flange on a prototype wheel. So this looks right to my eye.

    I did a blog post about this a few years back:
    https://ambersub.blogspot.com/2013/0...lemma.html?m=1

    On tank cars I will use Tangent wheels as the back of the wheel is more visible.
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    On tank cars I will use Tangent wheels as the back of the wheel is more visible.
    Do you find the Tangent .537 axle length to work in MTL trucks or do you use Tangent trucks? Also, do you body mount any of the tank cars? I have some fairly recent Atlas tank cars which are quite nice but I’d like to get rid of the Accumates.

    Sam

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    Quote Originally Posted by samusi01 View Post
    Do you find the Tangent .537 axle length to work in MTL trucks or do you use Tangent trucks? Also, do you body mount any of the tank cars? I have some fairly recent Atlas tank cars which are quite nice but I’d like to get rid of the Accumates.

    Sam
    Sam,
    The Tangent wheels work great in MT trucks. I did body mount my tank cars, but it was pretty easy as they were Athearn (old Roundhouse tooling) HCl cars. I was able to use TrainWorx body mount kits. Super easy.
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    Thanks. Hadn't thought of using the Trainworx kits; I'll take a look at them and see if they might fit.

    Sam

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    I guess I'm the ONLY one who checks wheel gauge with an NMRA Gauge before any Rolling Stock or Engine, for that matter, before it starts earning it's keep, on the INDIANA RAILWAY. Coupler height is also checked with MTL Gauge and NMRA Gauge. Catch the future PROBLEM early, before the track work does it for you.
    DIESELS ?!?!?! We Don't Need NO Stinkin' DIESELS!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by porkypine52 View Post
    I guess I'm the ONLY one who checks wheel gauge with an NMRA Gauge before any Rolling Stock or Engine, for that matter, before it starts earning it's keep, on the INDIANA RAILWAY. Coupler height is also checked with MTL Gauge and NMRA Gauge. Catch the future PROBLEM early, before the track work does it for you.
    You aren’t alone, we just covered that back in Post #2
    Karl

    CEO of the WC White Pine Subdivision, an Upper Peninsula branch line.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    Sam,
    The Tangent wheels work great in MT trucks. I did body mount my tank cars, but it was pretty easy as they were Athearn (old Roundhouse tooling) HCl cars. I was able to use TrainWorx body mount kits. Super easy.
    I wasn't aware of those kits, that does look super easy. Thanks for pointing me towards them, hope Trainworx will add to the line. Wonder how they can keep the price that low, if I go for 1015s and Shapeways boxes, I also end up at ~$4-5 per pair and it's a lot more work.

    Quote Originally Posted by samusi01 View Post
    Thanks. Hadn't thought of using the Trainworx kits; I'll take a look at them and see if they might fit.
    If I may, I'd like to point you to an option for cars that don't have a matching Trainworx kit: 1015s or 2004s in Shapeways boxes as I explained here: https://www.nscale.net/forums/conten...-end-platforms

    Hope this helps,
    Heiko

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    Heiko,

    Thank you for the pointer.

    I've also considered using square brass tubing. At the moment, it's a fairly low priority project but eventually it'll work it's way up the list...

    Sam

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