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Thread: RS Laser 1st Bank my version.

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    Default RS Laser 1st Bank my version.

    It's still nice and cool in my workshop , so I'll just keep building small structures for one of the towns on my layout.
    This is RSLaser's 1st Bank .
    Tony ( Wombat ) did this kit a few weeks ago, I'm going to use a bit different techniques to color it.


    The contents.


    Primed with gray primer from spray can.


    Several sprays later so that the paint gets into the mortar lines somewhat, the brick walls are definitely more detailed then those from the Monster kits.





    Decided on doing a different technique for the walls , using Faber Castell Albrecht Durer Water Color Pencils , these can also be used on plastic kits.





    Several color's later. I hold the pencils almost horizontally to only color the surface of the bricks.





    Then painted the lintels with Tamiya Medium Gray using a 3/0 synthetic brush , good quality so that even though it's very small it can pick up quite enough paint to do a lintel in one stroke.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com


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    Like how they turned out Jan great work as normal
    rich

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    @Janbouli,

    The colored pencils give the brick a very realistic appearance, IMHO.

    Good job.
    - Gary R.

    President & CEO
    Pinnacle & Western Railroad

    Never under-do the over-kill.

    I don't always stop for trains, but when ... oh wait!, Yes I do.

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    I'd been looking at 'borrowing' my daughter's art pencils for something similar (she's hidden them, kinda slowing down the process), great idea!! do you use a clear coat to seal the walls after the pencil?
    Cheers,

    Russ

    CEO of Devil's Gate Mining Co.



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    Painted the base.


    Doors and windows painted Poly Scale Aged White. This was the first coat did 2 more after this.


    Painted the sidewalk Poly Scale Concrete , and glued on the paper flooring.


    Inside wall painted Vallejo Mahogany , it doesn't shine like that in real life.


    Then used the template to spray on the sign , I sprayed very lightly at least 6 times making sure it went on almost dry , but it still went wrong. This is when I started to peel off the template , it was sticky on one side.


    And this is what it looked like after cleaning it up a bit, not so happy camper here , don't know what I did wrong and what I could have done to prevent it from bleeding. Next time I'll try another paint type and do it with an airbrush. Maybe Rich could include a small piece of wall in the kits for trying out first.


    Well I gave it a wash of gray , I think the bricks even look better now , and I'll just say the sign was removed and they did a bad job on it , or I will add a canopy to hide it.


    Mahogany wall in place.


    And here's where I got into trouble again and don't know why , had to cut the piece with the booths and door , it would never have fit , maybe I turned the wall wrong side towards the front , but even then it would have been too wide, the piece in the middle cut out was a couple of mm's.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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    Good save on the wall, I used a spray can and held it way off and used light fast passes.
    Will look into the wall trim not sure what happen there
    rich

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    Love the bricks treatment. They look spot on for older brick buildings in my area. Here’s most likely a stupid question. Do you think cheap Crayola colored pencils could achieve the same result? Because those I have

    Great looking build and thanks!
    Chad

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    Quote Originally Posted by New View Post
    Love the bricks treatment. They look spot on for older brick buildings in my area. Here’s most likely a stupid question. Do you think cheap Crayola colored pencils could achieve the same result? Because those I have

    Great looking build and thanks!
    Chad
    I think the important thing is that the crayons are soft, and most colored pencils are . I use these because I can also use these on other materials like plastic and resin ( that would be a problem with most normal crayons ) . The material that these walls are made of is more like paper then it is wood, just prime first before using the crayons , gray primer so you have your mortar lines first.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by New View Post
    Do you think cheap Crayola colored pencils could achieve the same result? Because those I have
    They might be an oil based material so if you do use them, try them on some scrap material first. Also spray some clear coat over it and observe the effects on the crayon, if it causes a run, etc. Also try it on a painted surface to gauge the affects on the underlying paint. All this is preferable to finding out it won't work on your nice model and possibly ruining it....
    Cheers,

    Russ

    CEO of Devil's Gate Mining Co.



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    Looks great as usual Jan. Agree on your template - next time try airbrush at low pressure. I think you will get better results as you will have more control. A couple pics using an airbrush.

    Love watching your builds so thanks for sharing.




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    Stuck the door into place using a few bits of the peel and stick left over's.


    Installed the back wall.


    Then stuck the outer wall to the inner wall.


    CA glued the LED to the ceiling


    Outer front wall stuck to peel and stick inner wall.





    Used 2 of my own chimney's , and weathered the roof.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

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    Final photo's , although I do see some small mistakes that need tending to.

















    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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    Looks great. Any thought of putting an awning on the front of the building?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave68124 View Post
    Looks great. Any thought of putting an awning on the front of the building?
    That's exactly what I think I will do, it will cover the oops , and probably look good too.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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    @Janbouli

    That's what I am wanting to do with mine as well and am talking with Rich about getting some Arched ones made as soon as he has the time. Are you considering Arched Canopies or a Standard Straight one?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    @Janbouli

    That's what I am wanting to do with mine as well and am talking with Rich about getting some Arched ones made as soon as he has the time. Are you considering Arched Canopies or a Standard Straight one?
    I think I should have a few arched ones from Gold Medal or another accessory maker.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

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