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Thread: YTBN (Yet-To-Be-Named) Railroad - build thread

  1. #41
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    Little by little making progress. That darn work thing is totally getting in the way.

    The last batches of frames arrived for the last piece. Once I assemble these, all the benchwork will be completed.
    20210601_104356.jpg

    The rest of the work is just boring background work. Secured the frames to the studs, secured the elevator to the studs, and secured the elevator track bed to the elevator frame. Everything is rock solid now. Still, I can remove the elevator to make room for the guest bed or access the window with just 2 screws. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

    I spent some time today doing the final alignment of the elevator with the staging level. Nothing's glued down yet, but the cars roll on and off with great ease, no derailments, and the elevator aligns perfect each time. I took people's advice and reduced the speed of manual adjustments to something slower than the approach speed of the elevator. That allowed me to make the final adjustments and program the position. Without that change to the code, it would've been much harder.
    20210602_225412.jpg
    Serdar

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    Last edited by ssoysal; 3rd Jun 2021 at 11:28 PM. Reason: added another picture
    Serdar

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    Rounded the loop. Once the glue dries, next up is wiring up the Zephyr and testing the elevator with a running engine.

    20210604_111332_HDR.jpg20210604_172206_HDR.jpg

    A layout build thread never feels real until the cans of beans make their first appearance, am I right?
    Serdar

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  7. #44
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    Yesterday, I completed the track for the elevator and the two approach tracks on the staging level.
    20210604_235305.jpg

    I just love working with ME flex track. I love that it holds its shape. I find laying track to be the most therapeutic part of the hobby.

    Today I wired the elevator, made some temporary connections for the approach track and tested the elevator several times running an engine back and forth across both tracks. It worked like a charm. I'm really happy with the results.
    20210605_152718.jpg20210605_153424.jpg

    I was planning to give the Tam Valley Depot hex frog juicers a try. I'll wire the entire elevator as a reversing section, and I'll use 2 of the outputs from the hex frog juicer to power it. The next challenge would be to see if the elevator sinks into the carpet when a full train gets on it. I doubt it, but we'll have to see. I'll need to lay some more track on the staging level and give it a shot.
    Serdar

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  9. #45
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    Videos!!!




    In the first video it looks like the engine's trucks slightly go up as it moves on to the elevator. Might require a micro adjustment, but honestly I didn't even notice it until I watched the video.
    Serdar

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  11. #46
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    Excellent work @ssoysal...
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    Support the natural selection process, remove the warning labels....

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  13. #47
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    Ordered the hex frog juicer. I also realized that I don't have enough cable left to run the DCC bus. Oh well. Everything is ordered. I'll start making turnouts while I wait.
    Serdar

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    Finished the first turnout of the layout. Well, almost finished. I still need to clean, attach the wood ties to the bottom, and paint it, but the soldering part is done.
    20210608_214300.jpg

    I put down a couple of pieces of flex to see how the staging yard will look like. I've never had enough room to lay this much straight track before. Feels good!
    20210608_214246.jpg20210608_214255.jpg
    Serdar

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  17. #49
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    Today I put together the final frame. It is at a 90 degree angle to the existing frame and brings the layout to the wall.
    20210610_175036_HDR.jpg20210610_175041.jpg

    There will be a hidden return loop for both levels in this corner. I added an extra leg to the back and supporting cross-beams for the loop back. The middle will remain open for access through construction and any unforeseen derailments. I need to duck under to get there, but the bottom of the layout is 4' off the floor and the access area is roughly 21" x 31" so it should be plenty of room.
    20210610_175056.jpg

    Here's an overview of the entire layout room now that the benchwork is finished.
    20210610_175129.jpg

    My cables have arrived, so the next step is running the DCC bus. I'll then finish the turnout, and start laying track for the staging level.
    Serdar

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    Yesterday I decided to tidy up the elevator power connection. It looked like this:
    20210611_181124_HDR.jpg

    I straightened the cables and put a heat shrink tube over it and heated it up. It looks a lot cleaner now.
    20210612_114414_HDR.jpg

    I also started laying the DCC bus for the staging level and wrapped it up this morning.
    20210611_190647.jpg20210611_193802.jpg20210612_104132.jpg20210612_104143.jpg

    Today I was going to start dropping feeders and then my soldering iron just fell apart. I had a soldering station, and the local electronics store doesn't carry replacement solder handles. Grrr. So I had to place an order online and it's arriving on Monday. Oh well, back to finishing the turnout I guess.
    Serdar

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    Is your T-slot aluminum extrusions 3030??? And who is your supplier??? I used to use Musumi but lately, I've been buying from ZYLtech and with their 25% off holiday coupons (most major holiday they send them out) it make the price a lot more reasonable.

    BTW your layout look awesome built with it.
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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  23. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodsup9000 View Post
    Is your T-slot aluminum extrusions 3030??? And who is your supplier??? I used to use Musumi but lately, I've been buying from ZYLtech and with their 25% off holiday coupons (most major holiday they send them out) it make the price a lot more reasonable.

    BTW your layout look awesome built with it.
    No, it's a 1010 series (1" wide) and I use tnutz.com. 10 Series Extrusions | TNUTZ
    Serdar

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  25. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssoysal View Post
    No, it's a 1010 series
    I forgot that they make extrusions in imperial measurements now. I'll have to look at buying some. 3030 is just a hair smaller than the 1010 series
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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  27. #54
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    Default Track has power now!

    Well, the replacement soldering handle I had ordered was DOA. So that was returned and I just went ahead and ordered a new soldering station instead. Only $10 more and gee golly it works.

    I dropped feeders to the two atlas rerailing tracks (I will be supplying feeders to every single piece of track, no matter how short) I also mounted the first hex frog juicer and connected that to the DCC bus as well.
    20210616_235327.jpg

    I used the jumper on the frog juicer to pair two outputs to control the elevator track which is wired to be a auto-reversing section. Because I want to be able to move the elevator easily, I used a simple connector to connect the track power from the elevator to the frog juicer. This completes the elevator wiring. It is solidly in place right now, but I can move it out of the way with removing two screws and unplugging two wires. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
    20210616_235348.jpg
    Serdar

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    Here's a video.


    Few comments, the linear actuator that powers the elevator isn't as loud as it comes across in the video. It's a lot quieter than that, but the phone mic just amplifies it when I record a video for some reason. Also, you may have noticed that the train gets loud as it goes on and off the elevator. That's because two of the three cars in the video have those pizza cutter wheels and I have atlas rerailers, hence the well-known issue. When I run the engine by itself or with the cars that have low-profile wheels, it sounds smoother.
    Serdar

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  31. #56
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    That's just too dang cool!
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  33. #57
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    Finished the first turnout. I finally was able to use the pliobond correctly this time. Also using the masking tape to hold the ties in place as opposed to double-sided tape made things simpler.
    20210618_172802.jpg20210619_155913.jpg

    The final picture is before I trimmed some of the ties that are a bit too long.

    Instead of gluing the turnout, I decided to secure it in place with nails. I thought, hey the PC ties are the strongest ones, so I'll spike through those. Well, when I put the nail in, it bridged the gap I cut in the tie causing a short. Oops. I removed and used the wooden ties which worked fine.

    I'm going to be using caboose ground throws for all turnouts on this layout. They will all be at the very edge of the shelf near the facsia like the one in the photo below. They work really well, but are gigantic next to the track. I also want to be able to throw the turnouts without reaching over the tracks. This one has just been glued in place. After the glue dried, I cut the extra wire off and remove the nails. I'm using a water-based glue, so I'll be able to remove and reuse these ground throws in the future.
    20210619_164550.jpg

    As I mentioned in a previous update, I'm using hex frog juicer to power the frogs. It works really well, and makes the wiring very simple. Here are a couple of shots of the wiring. Black/red are the stock rails and they are connected to the DCC bus. Green is for the frog and it goes directly to the frog juicer.
    20210619_170630.jpg20210619_170639.jpg

    I'm going on a business trip for a week, but I packed all my turnout making stuff and am bringing it along. Plan to finish two more turnouts by next week. That'll allow me to lay down the A/D tracks and the thoroughfare track for the staging yard.
    Serdar

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    Quick update - finished the skeleton of another turnout.
    20210625_125616.jpg

    Now that I'm used to it, things are moving a lot faster when building turnouts. I believe this was my 6th or 7th turnout. I was able to get to it to this state in about an hour. I can probably do it faster, but I don't want to rush things.

    This will be the last time I'll do a "look at me, I built another turnout" type post. The rest will be just routine, so instead I'll just post pics of completed trackwork as I go. I just wanted to share a few things I'm doing differently than what fast tracks tutorials recommend. The tutorials are great, but I find the two changes I made work better for me.

    Firstly, to secure the tip of the frog and prevent it from popping up, FT recommends soldering the tip of the frog from the bottom to the PC tie it rests on. While this works fine, I found that adding an extra PC tie and securing the frog to that works a lot more reliably and it's a lot easier to do as well. Plus adds more strength to the frog. Here's what I'm talking about (pointing it to the extra PC tie with the tool in the pic)
    20210625_125633.jpg

    The second change I'm doing is you need to cut gaps in two spots to isolate the frog. The spot marked with the red arrow is required - you have to do that one. However, I choose not to cut the gap where the green circle is. Instead, I chose to use plastic rail joiners at the ends of frog rails. It makes the frog a bit longer, but that works fine I think. Also, by not cutting a gap there, I am able to drop some solder in the middle on the leftmost PC tie which again helps with securing the frog in place. Normally you're supposed to file the PC tie to prevent a short there between the two frog rails.
    20210625_125650.jpg
    Serdar

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    Not a lot of exciting stuff going on. Two more turnouts and two more ground throws installed. Over the next couple of days, I should be able to put down some of the yard tracks.
    20210705_105145~2.jpg

    All the ground throws will be at the edge of the facsia. I'm cutting brass tubes to route the piano wire through.
    20210713_200158.jpg
    Serdar

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    Here's the other brass tube connection which is a little longer.
    20210713_200238.jpg

    Today, I removed the ties from the flex track that will be going over the brass tubes and test fit them. I cut the wrong tie on one of them, but I was able to cut the connecting plastic for the adjacent tie and just slide it over. Overall, I'm pleased with how this is turning out. Once the track is painted, the brass tube will blend in with the rest of the ties.
    20210714_111259.jpg20210714_111408.jpg

    I want to make sure that the yard tracks are perfectly parallel. To aid in that, I've made some jigs from scrap styrene. Though they work ok, I'm not that happy with them. I think I'll make a few more sturdier jigs, before I continue. There are so many different options out there commercially available, and even 3D printed stuff. But I can probably whip something up fast at home.
    20210714_111602.jpg
    Serdar

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