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Thread: My d.c powered Inglenook module depicting the post 2k Southeast

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    Default My d.c powered Inglenook module depicting the post 2k Southeast

    these first pics are of my module after 3 months of starting . I didn't post pics of the entire build because a lot of that stuff is mundane and we all know what's up . basically it's a 1'×4' module running straight d.c with a pink panther board 2" base with pine board frame . the inlaid 2 switches on the front frame control power to the no.1 track while constantly powering no.2 at the same time to allow me to park a train on the concrete loading area while still running another Loco on the other tracks and the second switch turns off the lighting system which will run off a rechargeable 3v battery pack to allow lighted diorama mode when it's put up on the shelf , also I'm worried about running a transformed 3v power for all my carefully wired and placed leds , especially nano leds . because a overpower can blow them all out .I've had several bad experiences with 110vac to d.c power converters doing this and frying whatever is plugged in . my theory is if the power is limited to 3v d.c in all absolutely it can't overpower so AA rechargeable batteries will be used to make the power supply for lighting . a less than satisfactory bachmann 1a d.c controller is being used now for track power but I'm itching to make a pulse width controller with 3v and 5v limited outputs as well as braking and other goodies . dcc ? ahh I'm old school I guess. maybe on a larger layout ? I like my old d.c system just fine for something small like this .

    the track is kato unitrack and I have 4 #6 turnouts that are currently unwired and being switched manually in the inglenook style 3 track layout with an additional turnout and track added . both ends of the track on the right side of the layout have been configured to accept junction pieces for attaching additional modules in the future . my thought on this design was I wanted a shunting puzzle layout that also has some industries for light operation as well . I also wanted the layout to have some scenery opportunities as it will be used as a static diorama when not underway.


    I caulked the track in place and made my own ballast by sifting creek silt from a creek on my property. the cliffs were carved from foamboard , trees made from sponge and matchsticks. scatter made from dyed sponge. buildings scratchbuilt from small cardboard boxes and yard sale signs and my tanks I made from pvc fittings.most paint is acrylic and watercolor from the dollar store or wally world . it's far from being complete but it's at the point where I feel ok about showing off some pictures . thanks for looking !20220327_153315.jpg20220327_153434.jpg20220327_153243.jpg20220327_153100.jpg
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    Last edited by bobo1160; 27th Mar 2022 at 06:53 PM.


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    Loving it thanks for sharing!! I really like what you have done. I’ve been planning something similar and can only hope to make something this nice. Is your layout really just 1 foot wide/deep? Feel free to post different angles etc

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    I have had great experiences with the PWM controller kits from Bakatronics. https://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383 I have used them in conjunction with various wall wart feeding the juice. The most common was a universal one bought from BigLots.

    The kits are great as they are easy to adapt to your needs. I have used them built into structures, the layout base and even upgrading a Tomix battery powered controller.
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    Thanks ! yes , the layout foam board is really just 1' wide, not including the frame which is 3/4" . gives exactly 4 square feet in workable area . I will get more pics up soon .

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    new pictures , I took out the scenery that was behind the first track and made that whole thing a concrete pad with the tracks inlaid . I also added 20 led streetlights and wired them . they are running off a 2 AA battery pack I've added with a switch and rechargeable batteries .

    I've been trying my hand at scratchbuilding buildings . took out the cardboard warehouses and made these out of yard sale signs and poster foamboard . they are not done yet , I'm still working on trim details and making lighting assemblies for them . also I now have a second module built which will interconnect with this one to form a large runaround and a 3.5' long storage track for outbound assembly and holding.
    I will be posting pics of this soon . 20220429_221055.jpg20220429_221227.jpg20220429_221306.jpg20220429_221122.jpg20220429_221055.jpg

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    You would be surprised on how much a backdrop will enhance the layout. It can be as simple as light blue posterboard placed behind the layout. Foreground trees will be even more realistic if you substitute twigs for the matchsticks. Some plants mimic trees, when seen through N scale eyes.
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    20220512_172832.jpg20220512_172635.jpg drainage culvert detail with a bulkhead flatcar I scratchbuilt . view from west end of the yard looking east .

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    Not too bad for a first effort on a flatcar. But it is lacking the bulkheads. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat...khead_flatcars
    As you scroll down you will see the different types of flats. The end walls are the bulkheads. There to keep loads from shifting past the end of the cars. Most are used for pulpwood. The short logs are stacked crosswise on the car and the walls keep them from rolling off. But they are fairly easy to add. Many of the prototype ones are added by the railroads.

    A great way to enhance any flatcar is to add a wood deck.

    Real wood greatly enhances the look of any car. That is a Reader’s Digest car. Repainted yellow with upgraded trucks. The plastic deck was pulled off. The wood deck was created with matchsticks, soaked in diluted black paint. Glued side-by-side into a slab. This was then sanded to less than a 1/16”. Sanding revealed how much the matchsticks soaked in the paint. Giving them the look of old and new lumber. You can even do more damage to individual boards adding more realism. Popsicle sticks glued on edge could produce a deck with thinner boards.

    You can see the effect better on my flat toothpick fence project.

    After soaking several batches at different times you get pieces with various amounts of paint.

    This gives you an aged look. Even unpainted, wood has variations, board to board.

    If painted at that point, a uniform color would occur.

    About the load, unless it will damage the loaded items, things are put on the cars as low as possible. Vertical items can easily tip or shift. Even worse be too tall to go under a bridge or tunnel. If a tall load cannot be placed horizontally, a lowboy flat will be used.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoNW View Post
    But it is lacking the bulkheads.
    no its not , there are bulkheads there .. also I appreciate the tips

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    I’m sorry! I mistook the bulkhead for a load.
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    OK, here is module #2 ... although #1 is definitely not finished I felt compelled to go ahead and put #2 together .... the tracks align with the first module to form a large runaround before the switching tracks . In the second module ive also included a long siding for car storage or another industry . there will also be industry in the middle concreted area . I didn't do construction photos because that stuff Is boring and over documented . but so far : module #2 framed 1x4' on 2" foamboard . mountains carved from foamboard and done except detail painting. track caulked into place ... foamboard concrete areas cut and glued and primed .
    and today I did the ballast and started filling in foliage . I've made more trees and need to final detail them and place them . 20220515_191342.jpg20220515_191328.jpg20220515_191313.jpg

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    I got the first building lighting system installed ( 4 nano led ) and the interior details built . also made clear windows and glued them in from the back but you can't really see it because it's such clear plastic . 20220604_194342.jpg20220604_194411.jpghttps://www.nscale.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=125671&d=1654390296[/img]

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    bridge joining module almost complete - gotta do the bridge surface and add some water to the riverbed .20220605_073811.jpg20220605_073840.jpg

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    got the factory lights installed .... got the small warehouse lights installed ... big warehouse gets lighting next 20220611_214239.jpg20220611_214456.jpg

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    I added siding to the big warehouse and repainted it , I'm really liking it now... just gotta finish up the lighting on it and dirty it up a little . wifey bought me this little kato , Pantagraph removed and kato buckeye couplers ordered. it runs good , i love it ... also finished construction and painting of the concrete walls around the loading areas . 20220615_091250.jpg

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    I need some semi trucks , trailers and intermodal containers for the layout . being the cheap ______ that I am , out came the plastic sheet and xacto got some dimensions for a 53' box and I scratched out this trailer . I think it looks better than the cheap molded ones but not as good as a w.s or something . whatever , I like it . now I just gotta make more and some semis .20220618_190116.jpg20220618_190006.jpg

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    got the big warehouse lights installed and hardwired tonight 20220620_193753.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobo1160 View Post
    I just gotta make more and some semis .
    I have a pile of old Atlas trailer wheel sets from an odd auction lot.
    I could send you a handful if interested. Doubt I can sell them, so no cost....
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    By adding a truck style muffler/exhaust stack to your electric loco. You can hybridize it. The muffler/exhaust is easy to make using solid wire with thick insulation. By stripping insulation off both ends of a short wire, you simulate the muffler. By making a 45° curl or bend in the upper part you keep rain out. The other end is inserted into a hole drilled into one of the doghouses.

    With a little more work headlights can be added to either the cab or doghouses. LEDs can be wired so they shine in the proper direction. If using classic barrel style resistors, they can be mounted on the roof and painted as if they are air tanks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoNW View Post
    By adding a truck style muffler/exhaust stack to your electric loco. You can hybridize it. The muffler/exhaust is easy to make using solid wire with thick insulation. By stripping insulation off both ends of a short wire, you simulate the muffler. By making a 45° curl or bend in the upper part you keep rain out. The other end is inserted into a hole drilled into one of the doghouses.

    With a little more work headlights can be added to either the cab or doghouses. LEDs can be wired so they shine in the proper direction. If using classic barrel style resistors, they can be mounted on the roof and painted as if they are air tanks.
    funny you said that because I was envisioning all that. I've already blacked out the windows and added almost 4 grams of weight in the cab via lead sinkers and brass screws cut into pieces so sneaking wires around that might be tricky . do you leave the led leads long so you can still remove the cab ? what do you do just tuck the long wires up in there ? solder connections or some kind of clip for power ?
    Last edited by bobo1160; 21st Jun 2022 at 06:49 AM.

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