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Thread: Current state of available paint for cars & locos?

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    Default Current state of available paint for cars & locos?

    I've come to the point of exhausting my old stock of hobby paints. I was looking through new articles and see that many of the newer paint makers/suppliers have left the market. Not a big surprise, but I haven't found information about replacements that have filled in the voids left. Fugate's article is good, but out of date due to the exit of so many name brands and their formulas.
    So, what is left, and what can be used these days for spraying, both rattle can and airbrush? I am hesitant to begin with the airbrush again. My skills with them are rusty and not compatible with today's techniques I'm afraid.

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    https://www.hobbylinc.com/tru-color?p=2#str_s=tcp
    https://usaairbrushsupply.com/t/mode...ailroad-colors

    I've been buying tcp and alclad primer from hobbylinc but I've been meaning to try the badger modelflex. I have one bottle I've not gotten around to test spraying.

    There is nothing to be afraid of. I started with no skills and just had to learn from Youtube videos and practice, of which there are many. Check out Barbatos Rex and you will be back in the saddle in no time. Especially his video on spraying acrylics.

    The TCP is very forgiving but needs good ventilation. Alclad does also. I mean, it all does, but those are worse than acrylics for vapors.
    Daniel Dawson

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    I've never used rattle cans to paint N scale stuff, I learned at an early age to use an airbrush.
    After Floquil vanished, I switched over to Tru-Color Paint and have not looked back.
    The biggest majority of TCP is designed for spraying with an airbrush, but they do have some that can brushed now.

    I've played around spraying some Vallejo and it's works nice.
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    I still have a large selection of Floquil, Polly Scale and Trueline paints remaining, but I have been building up a selection of TCP, Vallejo and Tamiya paints over the past year.
    Grant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen H. View Post
    I've never used rattle cans to paint N scale stuff, I learned at an early age to use an airbrush.
    I've just spent 3 hours disassembling my 2 Paasche double actions, and managed to get one whole working unit out of that exercise. One had been put away dirty decades ago after my first experience with acrylic (I knew nothing about retarder back then), but it is good now. I only have enough Accupaint for one U.P. diesel, but three are ready for the paint shop.
    I also have a binks simple airbrush as a back up and for coarse work. My air supply is not set up as I used to keep it with a moisture trap and regulator, just straight shot now.
    I will look into the TCP product, and where to get it. My LHS is RC car/plane/boat oriented, and does have an actual model train dept., but the paint selections are leaning toward that RC crowd and the military modelers.
    Thanks for the suggestions!

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    Tru color won me over for RR specific paint.......a while back I got a chip in a painted loco and I tried putting just a dab of paint in the chip and it flowed into the area and after it dried, you couldn't even tell where the chip had been. I've also found their colors to be pretty accurate. The other thing is TCP can normally be sprayed straight, which wouldn't be a big deal, but the airbrush I use for large area spraying is an old Testors brush. It uses lids to attach the pick up, and one of the lids fits the TCP bottles, so I can just grab a new pickup tube, stick it in the lid, screw the lid on the bottle, and I'm ready to go. Clean up involves pulling the tube out of the lid and tossing it, a quick spray of cleaner on the lid , and putting the original lid back on the paint bottle. This also works for ModelMaster large bottles and Testors small bottles although the Testors normally needs thinning. I like Vallejo paint but find the bottles to be a pain to use for me.........I never seem to get the right amount squeezed out.

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    For some specifics about TCP:
    It is an Acetone based paint, so you can thin it with acetone.
    For cleaning you can use acetone or lacquer thinner.

    I grabbed a quart of acetone from the local Sherwin Williams and it works just fine to thin and clean with as opposed to using "Their" thinner.

    The paint dries fast and dries with a glossy finish, they also are starting to get flat paints, which are not completely flat, but a nice matte finish.
    I normally add some of their clear flat so I get a nice satin finish, as I'm not a fan of glossy finishes to decal over.

    As Dave mentioned, it's suppose to be sprayed without thinning , but I have not found that to be true all the time.
    It seems after sitting for long periods of time it does get thicker, whether new or used.
    I read where some have said that it's because the acetone tends to dissipates due to the plastic bottles it comes in?
    But no matter, just add some acetone to thin and it's all good.

    I just finished spraying several locos using the Rock Island Red, Maroon and Yellow, all three bottles had been opened and used previously.
    All three needed to have acetone added to get it thin enough to spray again. Each color varied in viscosity.
    None were so thick that it wouldn't shake before adding the acetone.

    I've gotten a lot of my TCP on-line from Arizona Hobbies. They always had a decent supply and prices plus shipping seemed fair.
    But times change.
    They do have some nice info on their page about TCP that may be worth a read.
    I've also gotten some off eBay and more recently I have a friend who is a dealer that can get TCP from his wholesaler whenever I need some.

    Other than the gloss finish and being actetoned based, I don't find much difference from that of spraying Floquil or Scalecoat.

    Probably not the best, but here's an image I took after I got the shells painted with TCP.
    I added some TCP Clear Flat to the paint and thinned it. Everything covered in one coat. Then covered with a coat of my dulling agent.
    One Coat = sprayed it lightly and slowly building it up until covered with a good coat. I didn't have to spray a light coat, let it dry, spray another coat and repeat.
    I just kept spraying it on lightly until everything was covered.

    I use a Badger 200N single action.

    The Little Rock Line blog


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    I truly do appreciate the information and your observations about using it. I went to the LHS shortly ago, and SCORED! They only had about 2˝ dozen bottles of TCP in stock, and I came away with 5 that I needed. I only have mineral spirits here, so I will get some acetone. I'll dig up some random carbodies to prime and practice on before tackling the COLA E-2's.
    Again, I do appreciate the pointers!

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    Joe Fugate from Model Railroad Hobbyist did an article that is available on Testors’ web site:
    https://www.testors.com/~/media/Digi...-Portrait.ashx

    Hopefully this is helpful.

    Jim

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    I use Model Air from Vallejo , and recently have bought and used some AK , both are really nice for airbrushing and no thinner required . When using acrylics I spray some windex through the airbrush between colors and I make sure to fill just enough so I don't have more then a minute between items to spray, better add a few drops of paint then get it clogged.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

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    http://www.janbouli.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woody709acy View Post
    I am hesitant to begin with the airbrush again. My skills with them are rusty and not compatible with today's techniques I'm afraid.
    Well, after a lifetime in the hobby and being a serious modeler for the past 25+ years, I took the plunge this week and jumped into the airbrush realm of this hobby. I am actually excited and looking forward to all the things I see in my hobbysphere where this will be utilized. So far, my knowledge of "todays techniques" has come from the countless YouTube videos on the subject. It definitely looks like something I can have fun with and do! Give it another chance and we'll learn/re-learn together?

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    I've kind of gone all-in on the airbrushing now. I had ordered replacement parts for the Paasche's I have; find I need some other parts to make those work. In the mean time, I've bought a new small compressor with regulator AND it includes an airbrush (Avanti) from Harbor Freight. Works very well, though not as adjustable as the Paasches (when they worked, if memory serves). I've done the 3 E-2's (UP) and 3 FP-9 bodies (C&EI), plus a American Ltd. Santa Fe luncheonette. As the old saying goes - it's "like riding a bicycle", the painting slowly come back, though some mistakes must be relearned properly.

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    Airbrushes and compressor. Newest airbrush out of picture.[IMG][/IMG]

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    Nice! I'm building my paint station right now and will post pictures soon.

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