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Thread: T-traK MODULES

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    Default T-traK MODULES

    We just released our version of the T-Trak module have a single straight and corner ready to ship now
    kits 3801 and 3802. They run $34.99 each a 5 for shipping. The straight comes with holes for wiring, two jigs for setting the track and holes set up in the back for the skyboard. We will be offering a 7-inch-high skyboard here soon and a solid spaced so singles can be bolted together to make up doubles and triples. Only thing required to build them is a small hammer and glue.
    thanks
    rich
    www.rslaserkits.com

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    Rich,

    I see on the website that both modules types have photos of the single. Do you have photos of the corner as well?

    Paul
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    What type of feet do the modules use? I don't see a picture of the bottom side.
    Jerry

    If you haven't broken something along the way, you haven't learned anything.

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    yes photos of tops and bottoms corners ect ect i have interest as well

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    Sorry for the delay been under the weather plus busy and have not checked here in a few days, as for feet
    using 1/4-20 carriage bolts for the feet. Bolts are held in by T-nuts that are sandwiched in place so they can't get loose. Plus, the hole has the slots for the tabs on the nuts so each to install. If you need more email me at rslaserkits@yahoo.com
    rich
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    Modified the straight module so they bolt together with a spacer so no gap. Will list the spacer online soon and it will include the required bolts.
    Photo show them bolted up as a test with bolts only hand tight and not glued together just to see how strong the joint is. I did place an 8.5-pound weight right on the joint as a test. The joint did open about an eighth of an inch at the bottom but if glued and bolted would not open at all. I'd even be good with making a triple from them.
    rich
    www.rslaserkits.com
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    question ? Why is the top plate two parts instead of one solid plate ?
    Thanks for posting pics......

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    Quote Originally Posted by sid View Post
    question ? Why is the top plate two parts instead of one solid plate ?
    Thanks for posting pics......
    Three reasons, first a one piece one is too big for me to cut and second is shipping cost goes up the bigger the box as does the cost of the boxes to ship them in, third is material cost as the standard size is just over 12 inches making it in one piece would mean a lot of wasted material that adds to the cost.
    rich
    www.rsalaserkits.com.

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    Hello
    First of I put the T-track modules on sale at 29.99 each for the next few weeks.
    Second doing a drop-down bridge module and have a question. Right now, the drop is a 2 x 6-inch drop.
    Aas shown in the photo thinking of making it a little wider so a section of Kato 20-40 fits on it at each end.
    On mine I'm using our bridges so the Kato track will not work on them so going to add a section of flex between the ends, so the width does not really matter to me.
    And suggestions on it?
    thanks
    rich
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    Quote Originally Posted by spyder62 View Post
    Second doing a drop-down bridge module and have a question. Right now, the drop is a 2 x 6-inch drop.
    Would it be possible to only have the tall benchwork immediately under where the track goes, and leave it low everywhere else? Or sloping down, rather than an abrupt vertical drop? If it was all low except for the track sub roadbed then that would permit the modeler to shape terrain however they wish, whereas what you're showing kind of forces you to make a straight gorge. I know downtown Dayton, Ohio, has elevated tracks on retaining walls, and a lowered scenic platform would let you model the low street and that whole urban context; it's not just about river banks.

    I guess the major issue is whether the module is rigid enough without that 2 inches of depth everywhere. Maybe the lowered scenic platform has to be a solid slab of plywood to make that work.

    Hello. My name is Michael, and I am an ALCo - haul - ic.

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    WP&P thats where you use foam board to shape you canon / creak/river ect. so the vertical clif thing would and could be shaped .
    i kinda like the idea...

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    Quote Originally Posted by WP&P View Post
    Would it be possible to only have the tall benchwork immediately under where the track goes, and leave it low everywhere else? Or sloping down, rather than an abrupt vertical drop? If it was all low except for the track sub roadbed then that would permit the modeler to shape terrain however they wish, whereas what you're showing kind of forces you to make a straight gorge. I know downtown Dayton, Ohio, has elevated tracks on retaining walls, and a lowered scenic platform would let you model the low street and that whole urban context; it's not just about river banks.
    Could I guess but then how do you mount the connector track to the module? I am going to make the opening longer in the final kit as Koto makes an adaptor section (to flex track) that is 62 MM long or 2 7/16"
    rich

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    Well, have the bridge module ready to go and will get on the web site tomorrow They will list for 36.99
    but will have on sale for the next few weeks at 31.99 and the straight and corner modules at 29.99.
    The bridge module is set up for using the Kato 20-40 or 20-45 sections on the ends and either the Kato 20-010
    124mm track section or the bridge. I'm using the 20-045 flex connection section for my display module and out bridges.
    Photo shows our 60 covered bridge I'll have out next week.
    rich
    ww.rslaserkits.com
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    I have one concern over the adjustable feet, the photos are showing carriage bolts which are only accessible from the bottom. There are a lot of modules out there that use 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" socket cap screws with a hole in the top for adjustment with a long allen key. This make leaving at a show much easier, if this were a home layout where it was set up once and done it is not as important. PS I fond a local metal fabricator that sells Stainless steel 1-1/4" set screws for 0.35 each.
    Jim
    My build thread: Link (Sold to new home)

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    I can add the holes in the top for the cap screws as not a problem. Went with the carriage bolts to keep cost down as much as I can. That's the one reason most stop making them as Plywood cost have gone nuts. It's the reason I'm using the Poplar Ply over Birch as it's 1/3 the cost and cuts faster whish also lowers the cost. As it is now even the Poplar Ply has been going up 10-15% every time I make a new order.
    rich
    www.rslaserkit.com

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    rule number 1 is the more demand for a product the more its cost goes up.......sad but true......

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo.0455 View Post
    I have one concern over the adjustable feet, the photos are showing carriage bolts which are only accessible from the bottom. There are a lot of modules out there that use 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" socket cap screws with a hole in the top for adjustment with a long allen key. This make leaving at a show much easier, if this were a home layout where it was set up once and done it is not as important. PS I fond a local metal fabricator that sells Stainless steel 1-1/4" set screws for 0.35 each.
    I have added the holes to the tops of the next set of straight and corners I cut and have them on the bridge modules. As for adjusting from the top with the carriage bolts, all you need to do is cut a slot in the bolt end with a hack saw. An easy operation I do it often on my Corvair bell hosing bolts, so can loosen them from the back side. As for the set screws if you can get for .35 cents get them, best I can find is double that did find Nylon ones that would work.
    rich
    www.rslaserkits.com

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    @spyder62, I am very new to the whole T-Trak concept (but not new to N-Scale model railroading) and have been doing some reading and comparing to educate myself. I have visited your website several times. I have also visited CMR Products and Masterpiece Modules (when they still produced T-Trak kits) in the past.

    I do have a few questions about your modules in particular.

    Why are your modules different depths; singles (14"), doubles (13") and corners (14 1/8")? Is it just what you currently produce? Or is it to provide a variety for folks to mate up with other manufacturer's modules? Being that Masterpiece no longer produces T-Trak modules, do you have any plans to produce car-float barges and rail/marine oriented modules?
    Last edited by Allen H.; 21st Mar 2023 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Added the "@" for a specific mention to Spyder62
    Tom Fredenberg

    Linden, North Carolina

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    United States Navy 1986-1997

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredenberg View Post
    @spyder62, I am very new to the whole T-Trak concept (but not new to N-Scale model railroading) and have been doing some reading and comparing to educate myself. I have visited your website several times. I have also visited CMR Products and Masterpiece Modules (when they still produced T-Trak kits) in the past.

    I do have a few questions about your modules in particular.

    Why are your modules different depths; singles (14"), doubles (13") and corners (14 1/8")? Is it just what you currently produce? Or is it to provide a variety for folks to mate up with other manufacturer's modules? Being that Masterpiece no longer produces T-Trak modules, do you have any plans to produce car-float barges and rail/marine oriented modules?
    Tom
    the lengths are the T-trak standard as for the depth the corners are the standard size at the 14 3/8"
    as for the single depth was asked to do them at the maximum depth of 14 inches as shown on the N-trak page
    and doubles were done to the Wiki page chart. (see below)
    as for the car float module will have to think about that one as limited to what I can do by my laser size right now.
    rich


    3. Module Standards
    Item T-TRAK Standard Recommended Practice
    Single Straight Module 308mm W x 210-330mm D x 70mm H
    (12-1/8” W x 8 -13” D x 2” H)
    Depthcanbefrom5"-143/8"(125mm-365mm)
    (includingskyboard)
    Double Straight Module 618mm W x 210-330mm D x 70mm H
    (24-5/16” W x 8 -13” D x 2” H)
    Depthcanbefrom5"-143/8"(125mm-365mm)
    (includingskyboard)
    Triple StraightModule 928mm W x 210-330mm D x 70mm H
    (36”W x 8 -13" D x 2”H)
    Depthcanbefrom5"-143/8"(125mm-365mm)
    (including skyboard)
    Quad StraightModule
    1238mm W x 210-330mm D x 70mm
    H
    (48" W x 8 -13" D x 2" H)
    Depthcanbefrom5"–143/8"(125mm-365mm)
    (includingskyboard)
    Note – straight modules width is a multiple of 310mm less 2mm
    Outside Corner Module 365mm W x 365mm D x 70mm H
    (14-3/8” x 14-3/8” x 2

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    Thank you Rich! That information is very helpful.
    Tom Fredenberg

    Linden, North Carolina

    American by Birth, Biker by Choice, Patriot Forever

    United States Navy 1986-1997

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