Modifying Metal Locomotive Shells with Polystyrene?

[Moose2013]

Do you have experience successfully modifying metal locomotive shells using polystyrene, modeling putty and super glue?

Any suggestions?

Specifically:

• Scotch super glue, liquid and gel
• Tamiya "Basic Type" putty
• Bachmann & BLI metal shells
• Evergreen polystyrene (typically)

Looking for a warm fuzzy before commencing...

[NDave]

Hey Moose,

Just saw your post...

The cast metal boiler on my approximation of U.P. #1243 (started out life as a Bachmann ten-wheeler) was completely stripped of detail... all the piping, single phase airpump, injectors, parts of the running boards, etc were ground and filed off. The only details left were the boiler bands and cast bases for the domes. I used putty to smooth out a couple rough spots, and then started added bits and piece back... new or extended running boards made from styrene, brass rod for air reservoirs, piping from brass wire, new handrails (using Gold Metal stanchions), and various plastic details from Bachmann, Athearn, or made from "scratch." I hand built a new pilot over the existing pilot, using individual styrene strips for the "cow catcher." It ain't perfect... but was a fun project and looks pretty cool pulling a local freight or switching my small yard.

PB100173.jpg

PB100191.jpg

Building U.P. 618 from my Bachmann 2-8-0 required even more extensive modification of the PLASTIC boiler... all details, including running boards were removed (leaving grooves that had to be filled with styrene and putty), the domes relocated (incl. patching a dome-sized hole with styrene, and making new domes made from styrene rod), and all the piping rebuilt. Again, it ain't perfect, but I think it looks pretty good...

PC070076.jpg

PC070088.jpg

So, have at it, have fun, and remember that sometimes, "good enough" is better than "perfect" (if perfect means it never gets done). Good luck!
D

[Moose2013]

@NDave

Wow! Those are some seriously nice looking locomotives Dave! Thank you for sharing and for your words ofencouragement. Very much appreciated.

Been fiddling with a plastic shell bash to work out some techniques; won't come out any where near as nice as yours.

If you don't mind Moose asking, how many have you bashed to date?

[NDave]

If you don't mind Moose asking, how many have you bashed to date?

Just 3... the first was another Bachmann Ten-Wheeler, to look something like U.P. #1585:

P5230011.jpg

This one wasn't as extensive a re-build. I replaced the cab with a modified cab from a Bachmann 2-8-0, replaced the single phase airpump with a cross-compound from Bachmann, and a new headlight. I left most of the molded-on piping detail. Since this pic was taken, I did re-do the valve gear to more closely match the prototype. (I did this one first, because I thought it would be easier installing a Tsunami 2 sound decoder and speaker in the Bachmann shorty USRA tender than in the MRC Vandy tenders on the other two. I was wrong!)

Oh... I might mention that the number boards on all 3 are modified from those used on the Athearn U.P. Challenger.

[Moose2013]

Well, Moose ordered materials for the bashing of locomotives. Included more polystyrene tubes & rods for some size Moose no have in inventory. Also ordered 2-part epoxy, thick gap-filling CA, more Tamiya modeling putty along with lacquer thinner. Everything Moose has read indicates that these later materials will work well with both metal, polystyrene and metal-to-polystyrene projects...

This is really going to stink up the house!


Now, to wait for the post human to arrive...

[Jugtown Modeler]

The cast metal boiler on my approximation of U.P. #1243 (started out life as a Bachmann ten-wheeler) was completely stripped of detail...

Impressive modeling. Do you have a thread or post that has more info?

[badlandnp]

I agree with Dave, it ain't so hard as imagined. A good CA or Pliobond will hold anything to the cast boiler. I have no experience with the Tamiya filler, having been turned on to the automotive scratch filler many years ago. It dries hard, never shrinks or cracks and files/sands easily.

Am looking forward to seeing what comes out of them hooves!

[NDave]

Impressive modeling. Do you have a thread or post that has more info?

I did not take "in-progress" photos of #1243, so only posted the after pics and videos in this thread... However, a somewhat detailed explanation of the Vandy tender conversion can be found in this thread documenting the same conversion for my Bachmann 2-8-0. Modding the 2-8-0 to resemble U.P. #618 was documented here...

A thread describing my model of U.P. #1585 can be found here...

[Moose2013]

@NDave

Very nice conversions! Moose should have reviewed these threads of yours before commencing with the latest project to -- oh, Moose has said too much!

[Army-Gandydancer]

oh, Moose has said too much!

Yeah you keep telling n yourself here lately

I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

[ChicagoNW]

Working with the metal isn’t very different from plastic. It’s just a bit tougher. While I haven’t done railroad stuff, it was 1/43 autos.

I used Squadron Green filler for seams and small divets Though on Road Champs police cars, I used baking soda and superglue to fill the hole from the roof lights. Masking tape under the hole and just enough powder to fill it kept filing and filling to a minimum. I had first tried putty but it fell out after too much sanding.

My most radical mod was turning an Ertl Z28 into a miniature of my RS.

The mods include removing most of the aerodynamic body parts. The hood louvers were filed and filled. Most radical was eliminating the T-top. The clear panels were molded as part of the window glass. They were removed. A sheet of styrene was glued across the entire roof with CA. The seams were filled with SG. The top of the door window frame was built up with putty. All the edges were filed and sanded to blend. The car was then painted in Dupli-Color. I did the build in the early 90s and no cracks or pops today!