Bachmann N streamline 4-6-2 tender front truck

[DMK]

Front truck needs to be reassembled. Any tips?

DMK20230112_090337.jpg20230112_090348.jpg

[donzi]

From the Bachmann site;

N528X-IS001-3 (bachmanntrains.com)

[ChicagoNW]

First remove the axles by gently spreading the frame.
Insert the pick-ups into the frame - make sure the cups fit into the bearing boxes.
Reinstall the axles.
Reattach the truck.

Granted I don’t own the loco, but that’s how Kato, Tomix and BanDai make their power pick-up trucks. The pin-point axles in the metal cup bearings make a much smoother rolling axle than anything with plastic. Now if metal inside bearing trucks could be made.

[DMK]

Thanks,

Seems like a common problem with Bachmann

[DMK]

Bachmann N is junk! Sending the engine back to supplier. No more Bachmann

DMK

[donzi]

@DMK
Before you send it back, tell us what happened?
With the exploded view and @ChicagoNW explanation, seems like a pretty straight forward repair/reassembly.
Did something break? Is something missing?
Most folks here are generous with their knowledge and experience and would probably help walk you through it, if some misstep is causing a bigger issue.
It’s how we all learn, from our mistakes, chit happens, stuff gets mucked up, certainly no reason to throw in the towel.
Give the membership here a chance to help, most of them will.

[DMK]

Purchased new from Factory Direct Hobbies online. Lowest price $237. First run the front tender truck came apart. Upon inspection, looks like it might have been repaired before. Plastic truck frame fell apart. Bachmann sold out of the front trucks. Sending engine back to Factory Direct. No more Bachmann for me.

DMK

[badlandnp]

That's a bummer. I have disassembled most of mine which have DCC and sound with no issues. I solder a feeder wire to the top of that tab. The trucks from any of the spectrum tenders, front and rear are interchangeable on all the ones I have.

Here's a link for the replacements from Bman direct. it is sold out, but emailing them and they may be able to find you one or tell you which tender has the same trucks on it.

https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/in...ducts_id=10805

[donzi]

which tender has the same trucks on it.

The trucks from the Spectrum slopeback, short, medium, and long tenders are all the same and all interchangeable amongst themselves.
I would imagine the Spectrum three axle trucks are all interchangable as well.

Bachmann N is junk! Sending the engine back to supplier. No more Bachmann

Sending engine back to Factory Direct. No more Bachmann for me.

Sounds like you have your mind made up to return it rather than repair it which I fully understand, after all its new.
But if you wish to sell it, I'd be interested to buy it.

[DMK]

Am returning it

[gatrhumpy]

Bachmann steamers are pretty good. I have never had a problem with them. That us an easy repair you have, but it seems like you have your mind made up about returning it.

[DMK]

I have problems with Bachmann steam engines being too light. Either the engine front or rear trucks derail easily and so do the tender trucks.
dmk

[northmill]

I have replaced the front truck wheels on Bachmann steamers with pizza-cutters. Big flange wheel sets from olden days, from truck replacement on rapido freight cars. Stays on my kato unitrack better in the dodgy sections.

[donzi]

I have problems with Bachmann steam engines being too light. Either the engine front or rear trucks derail easily and so do the tender trucks.
dmk

Add weight to the tender, ¼ to ½ oz. works well. Make certain the weight(s) are completely insulated from any wires or contact strips, as to avoid a short.
Be sure to position the wires from the tender to the loco in such a way as to be sure they are neither lifting the rear of the loco nor the front of the tender.
Check and correct wheel gauge on pony and trailing trucks. Bachmann are notorious for under gauged wheelsets including drivers.
If the under gauged Drivers are not giving problems through turnouts, crossings, etc., leave them be. Otherwise correct but be careful here that you don’t accidently move a driver(s) out of quarter.
Balance the lokie without the tender attached.
This will not only help keep all wheels on the track, but it will also increase pulling capacity.
I have yet to meet any Bachmann Steam loco, Spectrum or not, that was properly balanced from the factory.
I do this to every Steam loco in my fleet, regardless of manufacturer, it eliminates all the issues you describe.

Good luck

[northmill]

Balance the lokie without the tender attached.

I am intrigued by balancing locos. Sounds like a great idea. I have some that I think could use it. How do you do it? Is there a guide or something you could point me at?

Thank you.

[donzi]

@northmill

There is no guide that I know of but then again I never looked, maybe somebody has made something similar and posted it on YouTube or a Model railroad forum, Dunno.
I guess you could use a number of things to make one (plastic) but I used what I had handy.
My balancer is home made from the scale off a 12” combination square, and a .250 drill blank as the fulcrum.
It kind of looks like a teeter totter with the fulcrum glued to the bottom at the 6” mark.
The drill blank is attached perpendicular (square) to the scale.
I found it damn near impossible to hold exactly in the perfect balance (sweet spot) until the glue dries.
But it’s close enough that some minimum filing on the heavier end edge balanced it.
The loco is then placed with the center driver (xx-ooo-xx) or the exact middle point between drivers (xx-oooo-xx) centered on the 6” mark.
That’s what makes the scale work because you can easily see the lines on the scale in relation to the drivers and get it centered on the beam.
Get the most forward and rear drivers exactly at the same increments from center.
Then it’s just a matter of placing small amounts of lead on top of the shell until you get the lokie to balance.
Then take the shell off and glue the lead inside the shell and check the balance again.
It takes a little trial and error.
I try to add the lead somewhere over the drivers (domes) rather than out in the smoke box or cab.
The further away from center the more it seems I chase it to get it right.
Just packing the smokebox and/or cab with lead really mucks the balance up.
Lots of folks do exactly that and never balance.
When the weight is equal over the drivers it gives the best tractive results.
This is the way I do it and it has worked very well for me.
There are other ways to skin a cat. YMMV