How to attach the track plan to the plywood

[Mark.S+10]

Hi guys,
After 5 years away from the hobby I'm finally ready to build a layout. I've got the plan in XTrackCAD, I've printed it out and attached at the papers together. Now I need to know what is the best way to attach the plan to the plywood before I start cutting out the sub-roadbed. Any help would be much appreciated.
Attached is a copy of the plan.

[Mark.S+10]

Here is a better picture of the plan.

[Bremner]

um...cut it out and tape it down?

[ChicagoNW]

You could use Spraymount or Photomount. It’s glue that’s repositionable to allow you to line up all those pieces of paper. But beware! Have lots of ventilation and WEAR A MASK! The glue and thinner are nasty stuff. Worst it’s airborne. Open the windows and have a fan blowing out.

Much safer but more expensive go to a Sign Shop and have them print out the layout on a single sheet of adhesive paper. Then apply like a giant sticker. Like this https://www.nscale.net/forums/album....chmentid=91632 Yes that is a giant paper sticker on a sheet of foamcore with a cheap clock stuck into it.

Another option is use Avery Letter size Sticker(label) stock in your printer and apply it piece by piece. Then tape your plain paper plan to the wall behind the layout as a reference. Much like an old War Room map.

[Mark.S+10]

I ordered some Spraymount. I'll let you guys know how it works. Thanks ChicagoNW.

[Doug Gosha]

Back before I was free-lancing my layouts, real time, I always drew my plan directly on the plywood/Homosote.

Doug

[Sumner]

I'd throw out a big plus for foam board on top of plywood. I've been using 1" over 1/2" plywood and love it. Nice very flat surface to work on that can be carved into if one wants some relief feature. Nice to layout the track centerlines. Easy to glue cork to. I love it and would much prefer it to working on a wood surface now. Wondering if you have thought about using it?

Sumner

[Stu]

Nice very flat surface to work on that can be carved into if one wants some relief feature.

1. I'm wondering how you're planning on building your stream if you're just working on flat plywood.

2. I built my layout in 1987 with the Atlas NINE book instructions with cork roadbed on flat plywood.

a. It works, but it's NOISY. If they made foamcore back then I'd use it over plywood in addition to Sumner's reasons.

b. Why do you think you need to put a print of the tracks down so firmly? Everything I read here on this 'site says one [or at least most posters] "adjusts before tacking anything down" anyway. IIRC, I never drew any plan on the plywood. The NINE book instructions said "lay the track out, maneuver it around first for fit and only then put the roadbed down."

[NtheBasement]

What does cutting out the sub-roadbed involve? Are you going to do a cookie cutter layout or something else?

[Mark.S+10]

Sumner, I tried cork on foam when I built my test track about 10 years ago, I'd only tried cork on plywood before. I didn't like cork on foam as much as on plywood. I'm using XTrackCAD so I can get the easements right and everything fits perfectly. That's the main reason I want the paper plan printed from XTrackCAD glued on the plywood before I cut out the plywood sub-roadbed. Stu, the sub-roadbed will be cut out of the plywood and elevated a minimum of 2" above the plywood base. Elevations are show in the track diagram. Almost nothing is flat. NtheBasement, yes, it is a cookie cutter. I plan to cut the plywood sub-roadbed out with a jigsaw.
Thanks for all the recommendations, guys.
Mark

[Mark.S+10]

For the benefit of those who may be reading this thread in the future I tried the 3M Spraymount and didn't like it. It attached the paper to the wood OK and you could reposition the paper, however it never dried to a solid attachment. I also tried Elmer's spay adhesive and Gorilla glue spay adhesive, none of them formed a strong bond between the plywood and the paper. I needed a strong bond so when I start cutting the plywood to form the cookie cutter the paper would not release or move. Furthermore, I plan to glue the cork roadbed directly to the paper. I didn't want the bond between the paper and plywood to be weak. What I finally used was a variation on scenic cement, 2 parts Elemer's glue all and one part water, and a drop or two of Dawn liquid soap. I spread a thin coat of this on the plywood with a 1" foam brush, allowed it to dry for 5 minutes, then attached the paper track plan. The glue soaks into the paper and plywood forming a very strong bond when it dries. Limited ability to reposition, so if I messed up I would remove the paper track plan section that was messed up before the glue dried and reprint it. Then try again. I've gotten better at it with practice and only have to reprint 2 legal paper pages of the track plan.
Have fun, Mark

[mikec6201]

On the 3M adhesive you need to apply it to both the paper and the plywood . Let both tack up and then apply the paper to the wood . That should keep it from moving . Mike

[The Ol' Curmudgeon]

I tried the 3M Spraymount and didn't like it. It attached the paper to the wood OK and you could reposition the paper, however it never dried to a solid attachment.

That's because SprayMount is not intended to form a permanent bond. A strong bond if applied heavily? Yes. Permanent? No. Sorry to hear if someone sold you on that product.

So how's this going to work when you glue your cork roadbed atop the paper template, then ballast the track and make scenery? A fair bit of water involved. If the paper begins to delaminate from the subroadbed, then what?

I may have missed the memo, but in 45 years of building layouts, I've never seen it recommended to glue a paper template as a guide for cutting the subroadbed. There's a reason that this is not a best practice. YMMV.